This climb can be done in three pitches or as three separate climbs. Each one can be toproped individually, or a lead climber can escape from the top of each pitch.
The first pitch is the longest and ascends three separate vertical steps of a broad flow with many variations. Each step is 10-20 feet high for a total of over 100 ft diagonal distance. The last of these steps ascends a narrow 70-80 degree runnel to the anchor. The lower pitch can easily accommodate two parties and a thin hanging curtain on the right hand side contains some hard mixed climbing when conditions are right.
A short hike up the creek from the top of the first pitch brings you to the second pitch, a broad curtain that can accommodate at least three teams with the climbs becoming progressively difficult from right to left. The main line ascends a 70-80 degree pitch of fat ice 30-40 ft high. The center section sometimes has thick free-hanging pillars. Some harder mixed climbing on gently overhanging rock with good pick placements and dangling ice forms on the extreme left of the climb. Bolts (often partially covered by ice) form an anchor at the top of the right-most pitch. Use trees set 10-20 yds. back from the lip, or screws to protect the rest of the curtain.
The final pitch traverses two-three low angle steps above. These pitches are great for beginner leads or make for a perfect finish to extend the length of the climb.
Descent: You can escape or access each pitch by following obvious trails to the right of the climb. These trails make an easy ascent for a toprope setup.
Protection
Screws, some rock gear can be useful on optional mixed lines on the edges of the route.
Toprope Protection
The first and second pitches have good solid bolt anchors at the top and bottom with trees for backup. Bring 5ft slings or double length runners and locking biners. The first pitch requires two ropes or belay from the top.
Needed a quick outing so we decided to give this a go. It was pretty fun. The first pitch has decent climable ice all the way to the bolt anchor. The second pitch has 2 climbable lines. One is just left of center, a pillar that tappers toward the top, and the other is a thin line on the right side. Plenty of fun mixed in between.
Soloed this route today, the lower 'pitch' is pretty beat out, but you can choose lines that still seemed pretty fresh. The second pitch is real wet on the right and all chickenheads on the left. A great climb if you have a few hours to kill and want to take some laps.
One of the bolts was replaced this past spring, it was in pretty tough shape (spinning hanger w/ a stripped nut). The tree that was used as a back-up for the anchor blew down at some point so we got that out of the way. The chains were added to the anchor to help with getting down after doing the 1st pitch. I just hope the gumbies are not top roping directly through the chains.
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