A good hard line. Start up the ramp to a broken crack system< and move up trending left. There is a perfect .75 in a short almost horizontal opening. This pro is recommended as the first bolt is a bit off of the deck. Now move up to the horizontal and throw in a inverted stein pull to clip the first bolt. The first crux is gaining the seam from the first bolt. From here, follow good hooks for three bolts, and then move up and left to the last bolt. Now the crux, move up on small edges and hook the lip. Pull up on the lip and you can reach a pocket deep and a little left (KEY) now mantle and you're done! NOTE: An attentive belay is an absolute must for the mantle move!
This has been done a few times before, over the years, on toprope. I did this at least 12 years ago, and I certainly wasn't the first. Great line, I agree, rating about right, Fine name. I was also tried a direct finish, almost got it a few times with verglas on the slab, but failed/flailed on the final few moves. I can't wait to lead it-- contemplated it with trad rack and pins-- guess I don't have to worry about the pins now. Nice line.
By Phoenix From: louisville, colorado Apr 15, 2009
Tom, the line you are referring to is actually Back in Black. It follows the crack most of the way up and traverses to a pillar out right. And yes, it has been done before, back in the '90s. I did a whole lot of investigating before I developed this route and the info I obtained was mostly from Jack Roberts via my other contacts. The original line was protected by 3 (bad) pins. I removed the only pin that hadn't fallen out when it was bolted. I contemplated leaving it in, but it did not look safe, and was VERY easily cleaned. So to answer your question Chris, I extinguished every possible way to protect this climb without bolts. As it was, the climb was simply not safe in any way shape of form. Now, it is a good spicy lead, and totally safe for people to enjoy.
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