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Manly Bulges 

5.13c/d

   

FA: Ian-Spencer Green?
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.13c/d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 196 page views

Submitted By: Hayden Miller on Apr 20, 2009


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Description 

Short route with two hard cruxes. It is called 5.13c in the guide, but it has broken twice and is considered by some to be 5.14a. More like a V8 to a V8 in my opinion which adds up to 5.13d. The second boulder problem is a bit height dependent. My beta involves dynoing off of a left hand undercling with a right hand two finger gaston.


Location 

This is a bit to the right of Black Slabbeth and currently has two hanging draws going up its black bulges.


Protection 

8 draws should be enough.



Comments on Manly Bulges Add Comment
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By Ben Schmitt
Apr 23, 2009

FA Ian-Spencer Green

After trying this a couple of times, this has to be 13d. Both boulder problems are sharp, hard, and strenuous. It takes a path of nice rock up the wall, but the primal commitment to pain on this route might make it difficult to project continually for climbers of this grade. In my opinion, Triage (great black north) is a couple steps easier....

Incredible send, Ian!