This is the first route to the right of "Gastoned Again". Superb!! Follow 4 bolts up a short, prickly arete to a large ledge (1st and 4th bolts are easily skippable). Now the fun. Climb solid stone to a small roof. Rest and prepare for the crux. Pull around the overlap to the left and begin the business.
Location
This route is just right of Gastoned Again on the Mammoth Wall in the Gym Area
By DavidH From: Parker, Colorado Oct 26, 2008 rating: 5.11c
Brilliant climbing! This route to me seemed like 3 mini routes. The first being the coral reef arete (5.8) then to the wonderfully crimpy wall to the roof (10b/c), grab a no hands head jam rest or a great kneebar to shake out before the business. Over the roof comes the business culminating with a dynamic move to a good jug just below the anchors. Best route in the 11 range I have done at Shelf!
A fun route with great holds throughout. More than a few notches softer than its neighbor "In the morning you'll be mine." I found it to be easier than some 11b's at Shelf.
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