Of the 500 plus routes that I have climbed at Shelf, this is among the all time worst. Many of the old, short routes with no anchors are somewhat forgivable, as we were just learning how to put up bolted routes. This route, being a modern addition, is pretty sad.
Scramble up onto a small stance and climb up the right side of the obvious flake to an awkward, but not difficult mantle with nasty fall potential. Weave your way up the face, trying to choose the flakes that are least likely to break off in your hands. Enjoy clipping from aforementioned flakes. Pull a tiny roof and ramble up to a steep crack. Clip a bolt, and start up on jugs, realize that you are about 3 feet short of clipping the last bolt, look at sloping ramp that you will crater into about 10 feet below you. Sack up, continue upwards and enjoy clipping the bolt in mid-crux, with ledge fall potential (instead of clipping it from jugs with great feet). Head up right to the anchors. Or better yet, walk past this route and do another one.
Location
This route is located on the Cash Wall, which is the small wall just to the left (west) of Cactus Cliff. The route is the second route from the right and can be identified by the large, thick flake at the first 2 bolts.
Protection
9 poorly placed bolts that interfere with handholds, force clipping off time-bomb flakes, interrupt cruxes, and often leave the carabiner levering over an edge. The good news is a there is some nice ledge fall potential at a couple spots.
I don't know how in the world this climb could go from *** in the new Fred Knapp guide to as bad as slim says. But I'm all for constructive criticism except when it comes from a person who doesn't have the guts to use his real name when he or she is criticizing. I'll be the first to admit that Funny Money is not my best work, (I put it up in 1998, so it is not that new) but to say it is the worst in all of Shelf Road is a definite exaggeration. Why don't you tell us who you are slim so we can critique the climbs that you have put up, if there are any? John Musso
By Derek Lawrence From: Bailey Feb 19, 2007 rating: 5.10b/c
Got on this yesterday, and I don't agree with Slim at all. I thought this was a lot of fun! I did not find any of the time-bomb flakes (perhaps they're gone), but I clipped from good pockets or edges. There was 1 flake under the first roof that MIGHT have been iffy, but I pulled pretty hard on it, and it's still there...if you use QDs that are different lengths, you can prevent the carabiner-over-an-edge issue.... Overall, I felt this had good movement, was sustained and well-protected and would definitely recommend it. Also - the route description should be moved to the Cash Wall now that it has its own section.
A lot of small pieces came off during my climb and I passed one big (and chalked up) hollow flake. Overall IMHO it isn't as good of quality of rock as the routes to the left (West) of it. Others in my group liked it more than I did.
I thought this was one of the best 10s at Shelf. There were lots of varied moves, interesting terrain, and it goes to the top of the cliff. It's not to be missed, thanks John for putting it up. Ed Schmitt
I'm surprised by the description for this route. As far as the mantle move, stem, step left and push up. I didn't feel aired out much at all for that. I had my belayer yelling "clip!"; however, before I was able to get to the first bolt out right on the face. I didn't find any loose flakes. Maybe these have cleaned off. I did feel that it was a little hard for the grade, maybe I was having an awkward day. The roof at the top was excellent and fun. Clip from a heel-hook on the left and it feels totally secure.
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