BETA PHOTO: The Bank Surreal Estate and Back to the Future.
Description
Another great route in this section of the Bank by Heavy Weather and Unusual Weather. Surreal Estate climbs like a 12a at Shelf but has one big pocket pull in the middle. Can't remember for sure but this move may be rather height-dependent. More continuous and less crimpy than other 12+'s in the area such as Future Fossil or McFly. I gave it 3 stars on a Shelf Road scale.
Height-dependent - not really. I've done it several times now and I'm just under 5'8". My partner probably does the crux more easily than I can and she is under 5'6". It's a long move, but from a scrunched up position. Two right-footholds to choose from and they are both really high. Great route!
Guidebook gives it .12c and says "a little soft at the grade." I don't know about that? The mid-way crux felt pretty stout. I use a left hand bowling ball or six pack like grip, right hip to the wall and...just go for for it. What a great route. The finish is wild! Does the route start straight up without touching the mantel start for Unusual Weather or without using the dihedral to the right? If these holds are off, then the start could be the crux of the route.
jhump, I distinctly remember going straight up at the start as you suggested and the start was pretty hard, but, to me, not the crux. Maybe something has broken. I'll try to give it a look in the next month. If I note anything that seems worthy of mentioning, I'll get back and add a comment.
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