Ian's Route is located between Alexi's Route and Red Eclipse and shares anchors with Red Eclipse. The climb starts in the corner/crack formed by semi-detached pillar on the left and the face on the right. Bouldery opening moves take you past the first couple of bolts, past the top of the Alexi pillar, and onto a fun arete where the climbing becomes significantly easier. Continue up and right to the Red Eclipse anchors. Fun route; worth doing if you are in the area. Harder variations are possible.
By Rick Thompson From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO Jan 27, 2003
This is "Ian's Route" FA: Pat & Azenda Thompson, fall 2002. FA party thought it checked in at 5.7, but it may a bit harder as your reported grade suggests.
By Steve Marr From: Lakewood, Washington Jan 27, 2003
5.7 is probably a pretty accurate assessment of the route. I was trying hard not to reach over and use holds on the Alexi's Route pinnacle. Harder variations are possible if you stay right of the bolt line. Still a fun lead, however you do it! Enjoy and thanks for the info.
Felt in the .7 range, watch out for loose rock at the top.
By Ray Lovestead From: Boulder, CO Mar 9, 2008 rating: 5.7
Super fun, rare, fist-sized crack climb. Definitely 5.7. Called "Ian's Climb" in the Shelf Road Rock book.
By Steve Knapp From: Highlands Ranch, CO Nov 22, 2008 rating: 5.7+
Nice fun crack just right of super easy Alexi's route. Crux is near the second bolt, but the holds are all there. Agree that it's a touch harder than 5.7 at the crux. Also a bit harder than 5.7 if you stay on the face/arete at the last bolt instead of moving left near the Alexi's route anchor. This is a good route to use to setup a top rop for Red Eclipse or Solar Eclipse (which we did and enjoyed profusely).
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