Better be strong at the grade; it's stiff, bouldery 11b on sharp pockets right off the ground. Hard climbing to the first bolt and a little bold to the second. Eases off a bit up to a roof which you pull via a good edge and a long throw - try not to stem on the left.
Per Andrew Iltis: Crux is right off the ground moving through some bad pockets to a monster jug. As with most of these routes, the crux is height-dependent and will be much harder for anyone who cannot bypass the smaller holds through the first crux...or reach the good holds over the finishing roof. In the great words of Bruce Hornsby, "That's just the way it is." -really fun, interesting climbing, and possibly good onsight potential.
Eds. Note: this is a combination of 2 submissions into 1 for organization purposes.
Steve Merschel - My favorite route on the trip. The start is bouldery as hell and the sharp edges on the first few pockets define pain. Bring tape if you e a Nancy like me. Whew! This route is awesome! The mini-roof at the end is also fun. You get on this edge and then throw for this huge ledge (watch out, its pretty sharp too). A great place to spend a day. We found a lot of great routes around this area and were running 3 ropes all day long.
I didn't use that stem, I swear I didn't! I just had to check it out to see why everyone else was using it. And I can tell you, it goes just fine straight up! Thanks for the photo Ron!
Just some brief history on "the village idiot". This route was originally partially equiped by an ex C-springs local. The individual abandoned the project, Paul Lanz finished bolting it and then led it. Obviously, the name is aimed at its original would be first ascentionist....
By Matt Richardson Administrator From: Fort Collins, CO Sep 4, 2007
Depending on how you approach this climb, I think that surmounting the roof is another crux. If you use the wall to the left, then the roof will be a little easier....if you huck for the large, positive ledge above the roof and high step to the lower ledge, then this portion will be harder.
By Zed From: Gotham City Sep 8, 2007 rating: 5.11a/b
This was my first Shelf Road route. Not a bad route, but would be better if it weren't so close to the corner.
Free Form Wall
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