Shelf Road is home to many quality sport routes on quality, vertical limestone. The area has recently been improved with the addition of a few new crags. Rock & Ice #103 [October 2000] (the one with Josune Bereziartu on the cover) has a mini-guide to the new areas, which are not yet covered in any guidebook. The other good guides are Shelf Road Rock by Fred Knapp and Rock Climbing Shelf Road by Mark Van Horn.
Getting There
To get to Shelf, travel to Canon City. From Boulder it is fastest to go I-25 to Colorado Springs, then take the exit for Canon City (beware this is tough to spot - it is poorly marked, if you miss it, exit in the south part of town and travel west until you intersect highway 115). Travel SW on 115 to Hwy 50, then west about 10 miles to Canon City. In Canon City, take a right at the first light past the Wal-Mart (street name is mismarked in Knapp's book), or take a right at the next light which is Reynolds. Travel north and the road will curve to the left and intersect Field (not Fields as Knapp says) Avenue.
Turn north on Field and travel on this weird two lane road for about five miles, when it joins up with Fremont County Road 9 via a 'Y' type intersection (similar to the exit onto the Eldora road). From here, it is 9.4 miles to the entrance to Shelf Road, which is marked with a sign indicating as much.
There are two BLM-administered camping locations at Shelf Road. The lower area, Sand Gulch has 14 campsites and 1 group camping site. The upper area at The Banks has 11 campsites and 1 group camping site.
Individual campsites are $4/night and accomodate 8-10 people. The group campsites are $8/night and accomodate up to 20 people.
All sites are first-come, first-served.
For more information, the Royal Gorge BLM field office can be contacted at: 719-269-8500.
Just before you arrive at Shelf Road, you will pass Sand Gulch campground on your left, behind a red BLM gate. Close the gate as you pass through. This is quality, spacious camping and access to the Sand Gulch area, home to many moderates about a 15 minute walk from the campground. There is day use parking at the northwest end of the campground, and overflow parking at the north end, where the Freeform trail begins.
To access the Bank parking area and campground, continue down Shelf Road and it is on the left. The North End is reached by continuing straight down Shelf Road. Consult Knapp, Van Horn, and the R&I mini-guide for more details. We found some disagreement in route ratings, listings and general details between Knapp and Van Horn, but both books are well done and easy to follow.
A fun and pockety route common to the style on this particular wall (the Swiss Cheese Wall.) The crux is pulling the bulge near the top and working to the anchors on vertical to slightly overhanging terrain. The lower section feels 5.10c-ish and is really fun with lots of good jugs and pockets....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
If you're taking I-25 through Colorado Springs, take the "Tejon" exit. Stay left when coming off the ramp, the next stoplight you hit will be 115, there are signs that indicate "115" and "Canyon City" (hint: go right at that intersection). From there it should be smooth sailing.
If taking 115 from Co. Springs to Canon City; Watch Out for 'mounties and 'troopers in the never ending construction zones!!. They're thicker then bolted cracks on Cactus Cliff and they do ticket at the "Fines Doubled" rate!
If you're going to camp at Shelf Road, please pay the $4/night fee. The campgrounds, roads, and trails are maintained by the Bureau of Land Management, which has been extremely cooperative with climbers. Shelf is one of the few climbing areas with trail signs that point your way to specific climbing areas. Furthermore, the trails are well maintained solely for climbers use; it's not like a state or national park, which maintains trails for tourists and which climbers benefit from as a result. Please pay the cheap fee if you camp...it comes back to the climbing community.
Be sure to bring and wear your helmet down here! Last weekend I witnessed at least 5 separate incidents of rock being pulled off or falling off with the slightest touch. Very few people were wearing helmets and there were some close calls. Don't be a chump and think sport climbing is without serious risk, especially while belaying at Shelf Road. Wear a helmet at all times near the base of the crags and keep your brains in your head!
Some basic etiquette would be nice as users and abusers of shelf road continue to grow in number. First, let's start by saying that Cactus and Spiney are not the only place to go at Shelf... spread yourselves out folks! There are plenty of great routes that get sun/shade year round, are well protected, and not as crowded (read: impacted) as Cactus. Try avoiding the 'popular' crag on the weekend, and go exploring. New routes abound and plenty of potential is out there on walls neglected by the new popularity of Cactus.
Be courteous to others, pick up your trash, and leave the boom boxes at home. This is still public land and as climbers we need to resect the fact the others have equal right to visit an area like Shelf and not be appaled at our actions. Peace
Some comments on getting there: The Nevada street exit mentioned in the area desrciption above has been under construction for the at least the last year and a half. That is no longer the case. The exit is now well marked and straight-forward. Take the Nevada street exit, at the end of the ramp go right. Then take an immediate left turn and get in the right lane to get on Nevada. This road then becomes 115.
In Canon City, the right turn just past Wal-Mart is onto a street named Dozier. Take this to Fields. After going right on Fields basically stay on this main paved road until the pavement ends.
I hope clears some things or up or helps someone out. Later
I don't know what the name of the route is, but it is just left of Phase Dance and has black funky round hangers they look like cold shuts. but the left anchor nut is EXTREMELY loose... I did not know weather or not to take it off so nobody would use it, I do not know how to rebolt or I would have done it today. Fun climb but it could be a real bad ending if someone trusted that anchor. Safe Climbing. if anyone needs more info my mail is; climb024@yahoo.com
As far as books go, I do believe all are out of print. A new fully comprehensive guide from Sharp End Publishing should be out by mid-March. It will cover Sand Gulch, The Gallery, Bank, Dark Side, Gem, Vault, Cactus, Spiney, Gym, North End and Heaven.
Hey Curtis, it's better and quicker to get off at the South Academy exit then go west straight to the 115 entrance. This way you avoid driving in the town!!!
3 New Routes in Shelf Road, in the Dead Colt Canyon area. The first was listed as a project , on p. 75 of the new Fred Knapp guidebook, #7. It is rated 5.12c, and is called End of all Porpises. (It is also route #8 on p. 82 of the Van Horn guidebook). The next route, #8 on the same page, is rated 5.12a, and is called Porpise Path. It looks like a porpise. On p. 81of the Van Horn guidebook, routes 1-4 are listed as 2500 feet (east) from the Elvis Solution route. In the other direction, 2500 feet west of Elvis Solution, is the route Mountain Lion, 10b, on a smooth face opposite the curve in the road where it goes over the mesa.
Hi! Does anybody out there know who I should contact about new route development at Shelf?
We managed to pry our Vedauwoo bum friend out of a crack and drag him to shelf last weekend, and all he could say while we were wandering lost around the Bank was "Wow! Check out that offwidth!" and "Oh man! That chimney would be sweet! Why did you tell me not to bring gear?!?"
So now we need to find out who to contact to see if we get any FA's or the right to add rap anchors above some fat cracks.
My partner and I have noticed at several "newer" climbs, people have painted or scratched the name and grade of the route onto the bottom of the wall. [EDIT] this is completely unacceptable. [EDIT]
As of November 1, the road to Cactus Cliff will be closed by the BLM. If you want to climb at Cactus Cliff or Spiney Ridge, park at the new spacious parking lot at The Bank campground. Hike down the road and follow the trail toward 2150 Wall. A new trail constructed by the Rocky Mountain Field Institute cuts right just above the bottom of the gulch and follows a bench east to Cactus Cliff. Hiking distance is about a mile and takes 20 or so minutes.
What a great place to climb but please leave your damn dogs at home. I don't care how friendly or mellow it is. My weekend was great there aside from all of the yelping, digging, walking on ropes, growling, and general interference of mongrels all over the base of the cliffs. I'm sure that most of the dogs would rather be out running around somewhere, rather than watching its master scramble high off the deck. Clearly the dog does not know what the hell is going on and feels anxiety for its master who has seemingly put him/herself in danger. Just leave the dogs at home. They ruin the experience for the rest of us.
joe q fed up, it's attitudes like your's that ruin the Shelf experience. Like it or not, Shelf is a dog friendly climbing area... one of the few places in the country where our best friends get to join us at the crag. Take your elitism elsewhere.
Bring on the dogs, but please keep 'em on leash. The last time I was at Shelf, two happy rambling hounds decided to have a wrestling match on my rope right when my partner was run-out at a difficult crux. It was a very disconcerting experience trying to keep my partner safe with a good belay in the middle of the doggy mayhem. Then on the hike out, I had to walk by another large dog that was not on leash and was growling at me. The owner said, “don't worry he doesn't bite”, but he still scared the *&?#$@! out of me.
Bringing my dog to Shelf this weekend. If you don't like it, I really don't give a #$%^!!!!!!!!!!
By phil wortmann From: Manitou Springs, Co. Jan 15, 2008
Could not agree more about people leaving their dogs at home. This place is not a kennel. If you care about this area at all, you won't bring your 150 pound lab to tear the shit out of it. Cactus Cliff is getting ridiculous. We have had a pack of dogs tear through our belay area several times. I know it's the "cool" fad these days, but don't be offended when I boot your "best friend" off my rope.
I know leading soft .11s at Cactus Cliff and complaing about other people's use of public land is the "cool" fad these days, but you'll rue the day you ever touch my dog. Long story short, stay in the gym, Phil.
Randy, cheers to you. Your concern is valid and your leash suggestion is right on point. Hope to meet you out climbing one of these days.
Gentlemen, you can't fight in here! This is the War Room!
No need to argue, just keep in mind the reality at Shelf:
If you go to Cactus Cliff on a weekend, you should fully expect a high density, semi-urban, fully nitwit sort of experience. I've been there with rampant dogs, kids playing boomboxes, overweight tattooed couples in relationship-ending arguments, guys drinking beer while actually on route... you name it.
Go to the Quarry Wall and you won't see another soul. Your dog will be free to roam at will. Or the far end of the Bank, or even the Gallery or Sand Gulch will offer some seclusion. Save Cactus for a weekday, or buck up and accept that this is public land and it is going to be crowded with people that have every right to do whatever low IQ stuff they may be doing.
The routes are just as good or better at the older crags anyway, and usually harder for the grade.
By BrettPierce From: Colorado Springs Jan 22, 2008
Pringle,
Sure Phil could have been a little more tactful with his comment, but you surely can't be saying that it is ok for someone's dog to be on someone's rope. Doesn't that seem impolite and a possible safety hazard if one was trying to belay?
I am amazed at times how dog owners often think it is somehow my fault when their dog misbehaves -- e.g. the guy this fall who said I shouldn't have my backpack on the ground if I didn't want his dog to pee on it.
From Pringle: "Like it or not, Shelf is a dog friendly climbing area"
Dog friendly? Often very hot, rattlesnakes, humans involved in dangerous activities that require their full attention. Sounds like a great place for loose dogs. Great idea. Here's a better idea. Let's get the county commissioners to pass an ordinance or law to prohibit dogs from the area. Anybody know how to start something like this? I'll help. Let's shoot for no dogs by 2009. I have a logo for our campaign: No K-9 by 2009!
First off, I'm all for dog owners controlling their pets...
Brett, as I alluded to in my last comment, I think most, if not all pups should be on a leash whenever the area gets crowded. It's not at all ok for someone to have their rope (or personal space) violated on any account. I, for one, take full responsibility for any people and/or animals I bring out climbing. You needn't worry about my shepard-husky getting all free spirited on your cord, and you're definitely justified for getting upset when people try to shift their irresponsibility in your direction.
And Jeff, Shelf is dog friendly, get over it. Half rope-length cragging, open access, and a long tradition of climber/canine coexistence. If you'd like a more exclusive day, try any national park, wilderness area, roadside cliff, or multi-pitch destination. And, for the record, I'd love to see you propose anti-dog legislation in the Canon City / garden park area (trust me, I know the commissioners, you'd have more luck building a rocket fueled by your smug self-satisfaction).
And lastly, Phil, I'm sorry for the personal jab. Truly. It was rooted more in my disdain of Cactus Cliff and its singular popularity than anything else. And to echo Richard's sentiment, try one of the countless alternatives to the yahoo-mecca that is Cactus on a weekend, it might change your perspective (the routes elsewhere are both harder and better). Anyway, I'm all for trying to kick the whole dog, non-dog divisiveness. If you guys have any suggestions, I'd be happy to listen. And please Phil, one suggestion for you, don't kick my dog.
You may be really really good at keeping your dog tied to a tree with a five foot leash, but I know for a fact that you are the rarity.
I have a dog that I will bring to a crag ONLY if i know that they are both safe from rattlesnakes and cliffs, and will not pester others. Places like castlewood where there is no one around. Is it fun for the dog to have them drive in a car for 2.5 hours, be shackled to a tree for a full day while you climb, and then leashed back at camp as not to interfere with other campsites? I would rather leave them at home, but I have a wife who can watch our dog when I climb at Pact-us cliff.
By BrettPierce From: Colorado Springs Jan 25, 2008
Pringle,
I have no problem with dog owners as you describe yourself. I just wish your method was the norm and not the exception.
Let's be clear here: The problem is NOT dog owners bringing their animals to Shelf Rd. The problem is IRRESPONSIBLE dog owners bringing their animals to Shelf Rd. Seems like a pretty clear distinction to me.
Deal with the latter in the moment. Give the others a break and quit with the sweeping generalizations.
Right on. I respect both your concern for your animal's safety and how considerately you factor other climbers into your decision making. We need more of that in Colorado. And to answer your question, I'd never drive for hours only to shackle my pup to a tree. But then again, we're talking about Shelf, and since I live about ten minutes from Sand Gulch, that issue never really comes up. But anyway, couldn't agree with you more about preferring the more secluded spots... if you ever decide to bring your dog down south, PM me and I'd be happy to show you some unknown goods where we're all free to roam.
Shelf Road is dog friendly for the same reason it is bolt friendly. Yay for public lands! Dogs are not welcome at National Parks, and Boulder's open space is full of weird restrictions (for dogs and bolts). I think the last thing we need is a heavily regulated Shelf Road.
Unruly dog owners and their unruly dogs should definitely be checked, but should all dog owners be banned from bringing their dogs because of a few bad dogs(or owners)?
Personally I don't trust anyone that doesn't like dogs. There's just something amiss about a person who hates them! Also, dogs are not a fad, that is why they are domesticated animals(took hundreds even thousands of years of breeding to get where they are now). If anything, people are less used to dogs than ever before, and are AFFRAID!!! Perhaps people who are afraid of dogs shouldn't blame dog owners for their state of fear, but should go to therapy. Also, a barking dog is not necessarily mad or evil. It is most likely saying hello; if you were nice and said hello back, they'd probably shut up.
We'll be at shelf this weekend with at least 3 dogs... If you have a problem, ask the owner to rope up their dogs... most would rather do that than piss someone off (but you have to ask). P.S. If you kick my dog, I will most likely kick you.
P.P.S. Cactus Cliff has always been ridiculous(grid bolted to hell), regardless of the dogs. The damage that is there is caused by us, climbers, not dogs.
I will add my thoughts on the dog discussion that has been going on since my opinion of dogs at Shelf has recently taken a drastic turn.
On April, 26 2008 my husband and I climbed at Menses Prow. Several parties were already there with 5+ dogs belonging to multiple parties. Just before we reached the cliff 2 dogs approached and one promptly pissed right in the middle of the trail. Later while approacing the ledge for "Jumbo Pumping Love" I was overwhelmed by the smell of fresh dog poo which I had to step over in order to reach several climbs. The icing on the cake happened while belaying my husband on a climb near the main approach trail. Someone's stuff was sitting next to the climb (not in our way and not strewn about) and a dog rummaged through the gear, pulled out a sandwich and took off down the hill with it.
Irresponsible dog owners- you know who you are. Leave your pets at home unless you can keep them with you at all times and are willing to clean up their crap!
Does anyone know if I can find one of the guidebooks (whichever is better) around the surrounding area? I would order one of the books online, but I am going to leave Wednesday for the trip and I do not want to pay an absurd shipping charge.
My partner and I are thinking about heading to Shelf from Laramie this weekend. It's supposed to be in the upper 50s, but I am just wondering if the rock is still pretty cold? I would love to hear what the current conditions have been?
By BrettPierce From: Colorado Springs Jan 14, 2009
50s and direct sun is shirt off weather for Shelf.
There is a new? mountain-type shop in Canon City for all your guide-book/fancy climbing clothes needs! I am not sure if it's been around for a while and I just never knew, but I was there in October and it was lookin' pretty fresh.
Higher Limits @ 224 Main St. Almost all the way at the western? end of Main street. They definitely carry Shelf Road Rock by Sharp End.
Climbed at Shelf Road on Sunday and the gnats made us miserable. They began bugging us at The Bank parking lot and continued to be an annoyance the whole time we were climbing at the Dark Side. Perhaps all the wet weather we have been getting has had something to do with that?
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