Bob D'Antonio working up to the crux on Phantasmag...
Description
Good crack climbing, excellent rock. Begin 15 feet down and left from Tales of Power. Look for a bolt.
P1. Climb corners and roofs just left of Tales of Power (11a, 3 bolts plus gear to a 2-bolt anchor, 70 feet). The second bolt is difficult to clip until you position yourself correctly, then it is easy. The crux is in moving past the second bolt. This is all rather tricky.
P2. Discontinuous cracks lead upward (10a, 2 bolts plus gear to a 2-bolt anchor, 70 feet).
This route is easily done as one long lead. Belay from the top, then rappel twice.
Protection
Gear up to 2.5 inches. There are also 5 bolts to cover blank sections.
A weak one star and a one move wonder. About 120' if the two pitches are linked. We trundled a 40 lb death hold, a teetering pillar situated exactly where anyone would grab it; wonder why previous parties didn't remove this hazard.
The first pitch of this rte is really quite fun and the pro is straight fwd and solid. I would agree that it is a one move wonder, which by the way is completely bolt protected, but I didn't find any loose rock, perhaps it has cleaned up a little. With a little more traffic the little potato chips and stray lichen would all be gone. I think it's definitely worth doing and there's never anyone on it.
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