Brent Pohlmann just before the crux on Dyno Arete.
Description
Dyno Arete is one of the stranger routes on Lost Angel. It is distinguished by a single crux move that is weirder than all hell, and is otherwise quite mediocre. Rossiter rates it 11a, but it's more of a boulder problem on a rope than anything... and probably not even that hard, once you commit to the move. Bizarre.
Start as for Freedom, then traverse left to the arete (crux), and up to the top.
This was more difficult for me than most of the other 11s I tried there yesterday, including pitches up to 5.11d. This is a climb where height and armspan seem to be of significant importance.
I would agree with the above comment - if you can reach the juggy holds around the corner with your left hand, it's not too bad, aside from the total lack of feet?!
From the anchor on Dyno Arete, you can top-rope the corner directly below. Start with Freedom, and continue up the corner instead of traversing right. Fun laybacking and stemming takes you to the anchor. I thought the line was solid 5.10 and well worth doing. Two stars.
I have to agree that this route is strange and pretty much sucks. I want my fifteen minutes of life back I used on this thing.
By tooTALLtim From: Boulder, CO Aug 6, 2007 rating: 5.11b
I can't let that be the last post. It is somewhat height dependent, though not enough to cry about, since my partner who is 1 foot shorter than me got it in a few tries. Right now the whole canyon smells of vanilla from those trees and is wonderfully cool... Enjoy the abilities you have, and just have fun outside!
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