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Ye old historic worthless bolt on Smoother (West Ironing Board, Flatirons).

Id# 1200658,  Dimensions: 294 x 492 

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By Ryan Palo
From: Bend, oregon
Dec 13, 2006

That is just awesome!

By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 13, 2006

Mank-a-rific!

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 13, 2006

Anyone interested in going up there to replace this thing before a bird closure? I'll be back in the states on New Year's but don't have a drill. Someone want to get the approval done in advance and volunteer to do the drilling? I'll do the leading or rigging or whatever.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 13, 2006

The biner clipped is kind of a joke and maybe for scale!

By the way we did rappel off this bolt so it actually holds body weight. The rappel line was backed up by another rope (to a bomber anchor a ropelength above), or we would never have dared to do this.

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Dec 14, 2006

I have an application submitted with the OSMP but we are still discussing a few details. If this really is the only place to get any protection as described by George Bell in his route description then that makes it a de-facto belay and it doesn't make sense to add just a single bolt.

I have been talking to Jim Erickson on his ideas about what he would like done with the route. On the first ascent, he doesn't remember belaying at the bolt, but he does remember that he and Jim Walsh just kind of ran the route out (please accept my apologies Jim if I am mis-representing your comments to me). Jim agreed that if this bolt is now the de-facto belay that it should be bomber and have two good bolts.

The OSMP has the final call here and they are talking with the Flatirons Fixed Hardware Review Committee to get their input. I will keep this forum in the loop on what the OSMP decides.

Bruce

By Erock
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 21, 2010

I've stepped up on stuff worse than that on El Cap, you know it won't hold more than your body weight but you leave it clipped anyway because it's better than the 10 #0 bashies below it...classic old hardware, haha.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 22, 2010

You're so hardcore!

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Apr 22, 2010

As an update, that bolt (a 1/4" Rawl drive) was replaced several years ago.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 23, 2010

Even more hardcore!

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Ye old historic worthless bolt on Smoother (West Ironing Board, Flatirons).

Submitted By: George Bell on Nov 13, 2001
On this route:
Smoother (5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b X )