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k00kEEz n krEEm 

5.12+

   

FA: Ted Lanzano and Matt Samet
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 85 feet
Views: 702 page views

Submitted By: Ted Lanzano on May 31, 2009


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Matt Samet approaching the crux.


Description 

k00kEEz n krEEm climbs the thin face about 25 feet right of s00krEEm and 40 feet left of Whipping Post. This is a new route on the Slab that offers excellent face climbing on quality stone. Well worth the hike!

The climb begins on overhang terrain for the first 3 bolts followed by a crux on thin crimps (the “k00kEEz”) to get the 4th clip. More difficult face climbing follows until the angle eases off. This slabbier climbing leads to a final roof (and 2 more clips), with another crux (5.12) to the anchors. We originally rated this climb 13a, but with new Beta it seems to be settling in at solid 12d.

We used entirely stainless-steel half-inch bolts (some are 3.5" long, the others 4.75") and hangers.

Special thanks to Open Space and Mountain Parks (OSMP)and the Flatirons Climbing Council (FCC) for allowing new routes to be developed in the Flatirons.


Protection 

12 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Mandatory 60m rope!



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By MrBurns
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Jun 2, 2009

Hell yeah! Thanks, Matt and Ted!
I was wondering if that one got toproped.
I will get up there ASAP to try this one.

Thanks to Open Space and Mountain Parks (OSMP)
and the Flatirons Climbing Council (FCC)
for allowing new routes in the Flatirons!!

By MrBurns
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Jul 7, 2009

12+, hmmmm I guess so.
Regardless do this route, short boulder problem,
then nice sustained face, to a bad-ass little roof encounter.