Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Flatiron Queen Anne's Head WC Fields Pinnacle The Ghetto East Ironing Board West Ironing Board The Fin Green Thumb Jaws
Unusually steep for the Flatirons, and peppered with pebbles and cobble stones, Slave to the Rhythm (STTR) is Boulder's little slice of Maple Canyon.
Climb an easy groove and traverse in from the left making some hard moves to gain an obvious set of huecos about 15 feet off the ground. From the huecos, make a long reach to a pebble (crux#1), and continue moving right using small pockets and cobbles until you reach the first good rest. After recovering, make a couple of more right trending moves and then crank through a very pumpy section of pebbles and cobbles (crux#2) that ends at a horizontal break. When you feel rested, kneebar past a very steep, right facing lieback feature (crux #3) to the chains. If you are pumped, clipping the anchors could be challenging.
Besides the huge hike and a little traversing, there is nothing bad to say about this route. The moves are fun, the rock is great, the holds are easy on the skin, and there is no glue or manufacturing. Too bad there aren't 50 more route just like it! Wait, there probably are, they just can't be bolted.
Location
STTR is located on the upper portion of the East Ironing Board. It is the middle of the three sport routes and is equipped with ring bolts. Look for three small huecos at the beginning of the route.
Protection
This route sports old ring bolts, and a two bolt anchor with chains. Be prepared to stick clip the first bolt. You may also want a kneepad for the upper crux.
I remember hearing a funny story about this line, and while Dan was working the route. I understand he named all of the features on the route (cobbles, huecos etc.), and would refer to them by their names as he passed. Perhaps someone who knows him could ask him to detail a few or all of these!
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