John "Homie" Prater has just finished Takin' Care ...
Description
This is a fun chimney on the west side of Green Mountain Pinnacle. During an early ascent by Gerry Roach and Chris Haaland, a live Doobie Brothers concert was in full swing down in Folsom Stadium. As they were leading the crux, they could head "Takin' Care of Business" and they started cranking up the chimney to the rhythm of the song.
Hike up north of the pinnacle (see rock for details), past Death and Transfiguration. Head up towards an obvious chimney, which is not hard to get to but requires some routefinding to keep this 3rd class. Rope up in the bowels of the chimney itself, or lower down if you like.
Now simply head straight up the chimney to the summit (only about 60'). This is a serious pitch with only one spot for protection, however as chimneys never seem to be given "S" ratings I have kept with tradition here. It is perfect width for chimneying, and it would be hard to fall if your technique is decent.
From the summit, rappel 80' NW from some bolts to the ground (ending about 50' west of the base of D&T).
From Mic Fairchild's submission: Out of the 250 routes in the Gerry Roach guidebook, this one rates among his TOP TEN. It is certainly the best chimney climb in the Flatirons. Consider approaching by climbing the Fourth Flatiron. The descent from the top of piece three takes you past the Challenger to GMP. You can also traverse across to GMP after you walk thru the huge gash to the top of piece two. Although only 60 feet high, it's as classic as they come.
Spot the obvious chimney below the summit on the North side of the rock. It is uphill of D+T. Scramble up 30 feet into the chim and off you go. No one has gotten lost thereafter. To descend, downclimb Green Sneak, or rapp 80 feet NW to the ground.
Protection
Light rack. There is very little pro on this pitch, I recall placing only a #1 Camalot and another small cam about 2/3 of the way up.
From Mic Fairchild's description: There is an old piton midway up, and a crack there at the 40' mark, but otherwise no pro in the chimney.
Add PhotoPhotos of Takin' Care of Business/ West Chimney
10.3.05
Shows entire route.
Christa nearing the top of the chimney
Sam near the top
the classic West Chimney
West Chimney on GMP
Add CommentComments on Takin' Care of Business/ West Chimney
Good point, Warren. My guess is that it actually was a BTO concert. You can read the original story by Gerry Roach at www.climb.mountains.com, under Trip Reports and "The Eight Summits of Green Mountain".
This climb is a rush! Very fun climb and well worth the hike. The leader must be comfortable being ten feet above your last piece in a chimney. The chimney is about 3 feet at its widest. Climbing is easier if you legs are longer. I found solid placements for a #3 Camalot and a #2 Camalot. Use a piton on the north wall near the west edge. As for the approach, there is a trail that stays about 50 to 100 feet north of the ridge heading up the north side of the fourth flatiron from Sentinel Pass. Scramble over a boulder field and look for the trail again. Stay north of the ridge.
As another approach, one could climb the east face 'arch' of Hammerhead and scramble to the east face of the Last Flatironette, which tops out right below D&T. On another note, I found it quite difficult to get into the chimney directly from the west with a pack; it's pretty narrow!
The trick to a reasonable approach is finding where to leave the Royal Arch trail. Before you crest the hump, right as it comes into view, head west into the trees. If you’re lucky, you’ll find a faint trail. This is your huckleberry. Follow it all the way to GMP.
I can usually sniff out gear placements if they’re around. I could find very little on this route. The only two pieces that I could see being useful would be a #6 and a #3. Deep in the chimney, you’ll find an off-width-sized crack zigzagging along the south wall. You might put a #6 to use here. Atop the chimney, you can place a #3 before committing to the pinnacle itself. I’d also recommend facing north when climbing the chimney. The north wall seemed to offer more ledges for feet, especially after the first 10 feet or so. The difficulties ease as you ascend. Expect 30 to 40 feet of run-out. Locate the anchors on the north side of the chimney. Wear a decent shirt. Enjoy!
Green Mountain Pinnacle
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