This is a long (95-foot) toprope problem on the south face of Seal Rock, 30 feet uphill from the base of Primate. It climbs the long, striking chocolate-brown/black streak about 15 feet left of the old anchor bolts at the top of the wall, and is a horribly sustained yet varied pitch. Rigging the route is a huge pain in the ass, but well worth it.
Begin in the right-leaning hand crack/undercling and follow it to its terminus. Traverse left along a diagonal break into a scoop. Hard kneebar/sloper moves take you over a small lip and into the base of the black streak; the climbing increases in difficulty, with a dynamic crux before a decent shake.
From the rest move up and a little left into a black bowl under the bulge, then surmount the bulge via sustained pulls on underclings, embedded pebbles and poor crimpers, finishing at a good bathtub jug at the top of the wall. This route is best attempted with fresh skin and good conditions.
The name refers to a decision to not attempt the route as a lead, not to the anti-abortion stance. The gear is there ... it could be led ... but you might be choosing something other than life were you to fall.
Protection
One 60-meter rope for toproping. 100-150 feet of static rope and large cams for an anchor. One each Metolius TCUs: grey (#00), purple (#0), blue (#1), yellow (#2), orange, (#3), red (#4), black (#5). Also, two hand-sized cams and a few wired nuts.
Dec 6, 6pm: (Monday not Tuesday), City Council Public Meeting at City Council Chambers - Dec 14, 6pm: Study Session - City Council & Open Space Board of Trustees - ****Note Location TBD ****
Both meetings will be televised on Boulder's Channel 8.
The public is invited to attend. Arrive early (5pm) to sign up to speak on Dec 6th. However there is typically no opportunity for public participation at City Council Study Sessions (Dec 14th).
City Council Chambers is at 1770 Broadway (SW Corner Canyon and Broadway).
Attendance and your participation will be critical to show our concerns with the current plan. Bring a friend and pass the word.
To understand more on the current situation, go to www.keep-open-space-open.org
Of most importance to climbers is the proposed "on-trail" requirement in the entirety of HCA's (Habitat Conservation Areas). This restriction applies to over 52% of OSMP lands and is unenforceable, arbitrary, and unnecessary. We believe that responsible, passive recreation and conservation are not mutually exclusive. The focus should be on limiting impacts, not limiting use.
FCC's concerns as follows:
1) On trail requirement in HCAs - Unnecessary, arbitrary, and unenforceable restriction on over 52% of lands.
2) Precautionary principle - Sets a priority of preservation over use in contrast to The City Charter.
3) Narrowing area of raptor closures - Not addressed by the VMP. Should be no larger than what is necessary to protect the birds. Look to Eldo as example.
4) Ban on all competitive events - Unnecessary and not in the interest of taxpayers. Lost opportunities and creates unfriendly image for Boulder.
5) Nighttime closures in HCAs - Unnecessary and unenforceable. Criminalizes moonlight hikes up Green Mountain and Bear Peak.
For the historical record, Team Positive was me, Steve Dieckhoff, and Strappo Hughes. Steve made the march up there with me many times to help with the route, helped figure out the rigging and directional gear, and the day I freed it, it was me, him, and Strappo.
Seal Rock
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