This climbs the pronounced, limestone-like tufa (the "Bone") in the middle of the north face of Dinosaur Rock. It's 30 meters long, and sustained as all hell once you step off the ledge below the Bone. The water action down the wall sculpted all the best holds right on the Bone itself - the scoops out left and right are blank, forcing Euro-style movement on this extruded feature.
The climb follows 11 half-inch bolts to a double-bolt anchor at the lip of the wall, out of the way of the East Face slab routes. We unclipped the first bolt after clipping the second, for rope drag, and used a long sling or two in places higher on the route, though they aren't totally mandatory. There is a sort of wedged block near the second bolt that we didn't use on the traverse - heads up with it. There's also a hollow toaster-sized flake near the jugs down and right of the last bolt - don't use that either (X on it). You don't need to use either of these holds.
To begin, scramble up the ramps, and then move right to left across the lower ledges. Once below the roof, start tugging and don't let go till the chains. For what it's worth, I think this is one of the best pitches in the Flatirons.
Many thanks to the Flatirons Climbing Council, Boulder OSMP, and the Access Fund for making it possible to establish new routes in the Flatirons.
Location
Center of the north face of Dinosaur Rock.
Protection
11 bolts to a double-bolt anchor. The first bolt is about 40 feet up but is reached via easy fifth class. If you get gripped on the dirty ramp, there's probably a little gear.
This route is awesome. Killer sustained climbing out a long proud wall. Unusual movement, good rock, nice approach. If you like 13a climbing, don't miss this one.
So a week after Glover's post on Sept. 7th, I pulled the fixed draws off Milk Bone. Please contact me so I can get the draws back to you.
Historically speaking, it was public annoyance over the route--Superfresh-- on a major hiking trail, with its tick marks and fixed draws, that was the final straw to close the Flatirons to route development 13 yrs ago. I really want to be able to continue climbing the Flatirons and see new good lines developed. This is happening through pilot areas and trail work and a working relationship with OSMP, etc....
Excuse me for pulling the draws and please don't fix on this major trail in the future.
Sept. 7th Post: Someone recently ticked the hell out of Milk Bone. Giant, foot long ticks clearly visible from the trail. Overticking is super lame to begin with and draws attention to the crag and our scene which we need to keep super low key so we can keep this new-routing thing going. Someone has had their draws on this route for over a month now. Whoever it is please remove your draws so we don't attract negative flack from hikers or rangers. If you need to hang the draws, it is easy to 4th class to the summit of Dino from the west and do a short rap off a giant flake to the anchors. And be cool to hikers no matter what retarded yum-yums they are.
Thanks for taking those draws down. I take my dog on a hike through here about twice a week, and those draws have been up for about a month and a half. This is an extrememly popular trail and a bunch of draws along with huge tickmarks does not show that we as climbers are a respectful user group.
I'm really thankful for all the new routes that Matt, Chris, and Ted have had a hand in up there. Turning this cliff into a Rifle-like crag in a location as public as this could get the crag closed and possibly threaten the future opening of more coveted crags in the Flatirons.
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