A great route on great rock- resembles the route Butterfly in many ways. LACKS PROTECTION for long stretches. Pitch 1 (5.6, S) Start up in a chimney-sized groove and after a short distance, step left up and onto the slab, heading left to intercept a line of odd brick-like blocks and puzzle-pieces. These can be climbed for ~70 meters to top out left onto a ramp and a belay. Pitch 2 (5.7, VS) From that belay, move up a good distance to some nice boulders below a double roof. THis will give you more rope for the 71-meter pitch you are about ready to do. The first above is wider and larger, the second is smaller and arch-shaped. Watching for any loose rock (and mind you, with lack of gear) go over the right side of roof #1, then up the center of roof #2. Continue up and left though a very seriously runout water-groove. YOu can bail-out to the right, but we found that you can continue up this perfect rock for 70 meters to join "Baker's Way" just below a ledge just below where it intercepts the Direct East Face. Pitch 3 (5.4) Go a short way up "Baker's Way" and join "Direct East Face" for one long pitch to the summit Ridge of the "North Arete." Pitch 4&5 (5.0) Join the North Arete to the summit in 2 very pitches.
Location
A few hundred feet up and left of the standard east face, and above a massive boulder that has to be circumnavigated to get to the base. Start up into a groove just right of a junky corner.
Protection
You better be ready for runouts. Real ones. The first rope-length of climbing is quite runout in spots. The second is just plain silly for lack of gear. The third takes you up to more normal flatirons climbing...
By percious From: Arvada, CO Jul 24, 2009 rating: 5.7 R
I disagree with the authors assessment of gear at the crux. I saw at least 2 cam placements for pulling the crux roofs, which aren't all that bad anyway. Just watch for loose rock while approaching the roofs. You *can* get some gear in the puzzle pieces, but the rock there is questionable at best, so be solid in the grade if you are looking to lead it.
Pucker up if you are solo and onsight on this route tho, the roof pulls are cryptic, the hands are a bit smeary on the second, but if you get your feet up high they are not too bad.
This is my favourite route on the first. Stellar position, crowd free and unusual puzzle piece rocks make this 4-star in my book. This route is pretty easily linked with end of Fandango. When you get to Baker's way, head left and then down through a slot. This get's you around the up-and down summit ridge and away from roped parties.
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