Waiting For Columbus 

We (Luke Clarke and I) did this yesterday 10/26/02, but we seemed to have missed the second 10c crux indicated on the topo as somewhere above the second bolt. I think I was too far right (where the holds are). At one point I used the right edge of the face with one foot around the corner. This was just before a ramp that slants up and left and leads to the plates that lead to the roof.

We belayed half way, by stepping right from the ramp mentioned above to a very cozy platform above the overhanging part of Falcon's Fracture. You can get good cams for the belay by climbing a little higher, and you can thread a big wire through a pinched off crack. Photos from here of the roof would be great.

Since I missed the second crux, and since I wasn't paying attention to the topo, I was expecting the roof to be 10c. I was surprised, even a bit disappointed, to find it to be very easy at about 5.9. It could be much harder if you are short.

After the roof we angled left rather than going straight up to Slip Slide ledge. This was fun and easy, adding some more exposure. We belayed below a gigantic boulder (not at the big bolt Tony mentions), and downclimbed (with a belay) an easy slab on the west face to the Friday's Folly rappel._Hero shot? What's with the photo of Rossiter on page 198 of the Flatirons Guide? We climbed the roof just right of the bolt. I suspect Rossiter hand traversed further left for a better photo. Or maybe he's short and that's the way a shorter person would do the roof?

Gear: I agree with Tony about the clips on the first few bolts. They were annoying. I'm 6.2+ with a -1 ape factor, and I had to start the moves to make the clip. But, once clipped, I was happier the bolts were higher. To get to the first bolt, climb up and right and then back left. Left then right also looks possible, but is harder. Tony says to bring 2_ to 3.5_ cams, but in his text he says 0.75_ to 3_. Bring some smaller cams. I think I used down to the green Alien. Also, brass nuts (HBs for me), and up to the gold/#2 Camalot.

If you only have a 50m rope, and/or you'd rather avoid crowds on the standard rappel descent, go straight up to Slip-Slide Ledge and belay. Then downclimb Slip-Slide Ledge to the top of the Southwest Chimney. From here, you can either continue to downclimb, down the relatively easy chimney, or rappel the same way to the ground (from an eyebolt).

I've read the other comments and I'm short (5'7") but didn't have much trouble at all with any of the hard sections. The cruxes looked scary to lead but once I pulled into them, they were all comfortable without any trouble. In fact, I felt like it leaned toward being a bit of a jug haul for most of the route with the cruxes having solid, big holds. Each 10c crux might be a bit more like 10b but because of the sustained nature, I'd say the grade is pretty accurate. It was a great route with lots of fun, sustained climbing. Combine this with Friday's Folly ([spectacular] warmup) on a sunny, winter day and you'll have a terrific day of climbing with the 3rd Flatiron most likely all to yourself.

Just did this route again. This was a pretty heady lead before the bolts were placed and though it was possible to get some gear in, with the addition of the bolts it is quite safe now.

Super route, very fun. Don't get all caught up in the jug hauling and start skipping any gear placements. We broke two big holds on this route in October ’09.