Moving up to the 4th bolt. Crux monodoigt, definit...
Description
Classic Flatirons rock climbing. Located on the Box's south facing Concave Wall, Discipline is one of the mostbeautiful sport climbs I have ever seen. It also offers some of the best technical face climbing in the Flatirons.
Start by climbing a thin slab with sharp pockets and crimps to a large hole where you can place a # 3 cam and shake. (The cam is not essential as the climbing to the next bolt is pretty easy, but it may take off some of the edge.) Climb through an awkward traverse and then the route becomes slightly overhung and also slightly pumpy. You can rest on several jugs around the 5th bolt, but watch as some of these appeared loose. To clip the chains, you'll need to pull a classic top-out onto the upper slab by pulling on some semi-desperate slopers and small crimps. You may want to stick clip the first bolt, but this is not entirely necessary.
If you're up for more face climbing try Cornucopia to the left. A very thin and desperate Dale Goddard route set in the 1980's.
To get to Discipline, park at NCAR and ascend the Mallory Cave trail towards Dinosaur Mountain. Instead of going left up towards Power Bulge, go right (after Der Zerkle) and continue up a moderate incline for about 10 minutes (good cardio warm-up). You'll see the Box on your right and Discipline is on Concave Wall.
Protection
6 bolts of climbing to a 2 bolt anchor. A # 3 cam is useful after the 2nd bolt.
I agree, a pretty climb. There are sticks at the base for stick-clipping the first bolt. it's thin up to it, but do-able. The cam is also not critical. the moves up to the anchors are stout, and fun.
Also note the drilled pipe on the square edge of the large boulder flat behind the belayer. crazy kids...
The old ring bolts and anchors have been replaced with half inch, stainless bolts. Still need to patch and camo the old bolt holes, and replace old hardware on Cornucopia. Thanks to ARI, OSMP, Matt, Stan and Greg.
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