Starting low on the First Flatironette in December...
Description
The East Face of the First Flatironette is generally climbable. Why is there only one route on this broad slab? Well, there could be dozens, but the climbing is all generally the same and wandering a little here and there keeps the general difficulty at about 5.2. The only real difference from oen section to another is how continuous the climb might be or how many trees and gullys you might pass along the way.Rossiter suggests going up from the low, left-hand edge of the rock past a few gullies to the most continuous and solid part of the face. This is perhaps 100 feet up and right of the very base. I agree that the climbing from this point is great. Climb up and onward, tending slightly left past flakes, cracks, and pockets for a few pitches to reach the summit.
This is a fine climb at its grade and perhaps the best flatirons introduction to slower parties and less confident leaders. Like any flatiron, there are to be some runouts, but the lack of difficulty and frequent secure rests will likely keep even a skittish leader's head cool.
Descend by scrambling the ridgeline up top to a point where you can step, hop, or scramble off to the west. Next, walk north past a gully, past The Spy, and continue North down a hill until you reach a well-traveled East/West Trail. Head East on this trail to gain the cliff base again. This trail is pretty good and should take only 5-10 minutes.
A nice fun climb with great views, excellent if you're new to leading multipitch or getting back into it. Also, even on weekends when other climbs are crowded, you'll probably share this rock with at most a couple of other groups. We climbed the main part of the face (past the 2 gullies); the first 100 feet or so up to 2 large flakes is easy but somewhat run out, I think I placed maybe 5 pieces total. After that protection is much more evident and rock is lower angled, we took 2 1/2 pitches to get to the "summit" where you just downclimb about 10 feet to get off. It's a great climb even for beginners, but if you have a leader who is more experienced and a leader who is less experienced, the more experienced person should take the first pitch. Walk off via the quasi-trail to the North of the Spy (the next rock to the right)
Fun climb. My opinion: Don't bother with a rope, it will do you more harm than good. If you are not comfortable climbing this 'sans rope', then ya might want to leave it for another day.
Still a good crag when the First is just too long & late in the day for a date climb. The cleanest line started uphill & offered a couple of really fun sections. Wish I had a 70M, but it was cool all the same.
Any excuse to get out and be near the Southern Sun!!
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