This is a fun route that can be easily be toproped after doing the second rappel off the Maiden. The crux is right off the ground and continues to be challenging for maybe thirty feet. Above the climbing eases for 30-40 more feet, but gear is still hard to come by. The final forty feet can be done by climbing up the crack on the left (gear here) or continuing up the beautiful huecoed face directly to the anchors. This latter option seems more like 5.11 near the top and there is no gear up this face.
This would make a great start to the West Overhang route if it wasn't for the lack of gear. I believe you could start this route further down and east where it looks like you can get on the ramp system. The runout would still be huge - maybe 100 feet, but probably on 5.6/7 terrain until the crack. From there it is more like 5.9 to the notch.
Protection
There isn't much gear on this route for the first 60 or 70 feet and this includes the crux. I'd take some stoppers and a selection of cams up to #3 Camalot in hopes that some could fit in the huecos. Toproping is the best option
Rossiter indicates that one traverses RIGHT to reach the upper crack. This is either an error, or possibly there is an alternate (and possibly safer) start to this route a ways left (uphill) from where the normal rap ends.
This is a worthwhile route, the crack section is quite nice.
Andy Moore has indicated that the real "Gates of Galas" does start ~50' farther uphill from the base of the second rap, climbing the right side of a flake. It then traverses right into the final crack, shared by the above route description.
If you climb the route as described above you are not on completley different route from the one put up by Bob Horan in 1982 (except for the crack at the very end, if you go that way).
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Oct 12, 2003 rating: 5.11a
This a fun top rope to do on your way out. I would agree with the 5.11 statement, if you climb the face right below the anchors. There are some large reaches as you near the top.
After TR'ing it, I led this yesterday via the easiest variation: Starting from where the rap from the Crow's nest drops you, step off the big block onto huecos. Good pro here with #1 and #2 Camalots. Move left about 8 feet and get a good #3 Camalot. Pull over onto the slab and run it out on easy rock (5.6?) with ground fall potential to a small overlap. Decent red Alien here. Pull over a moderate bulge and get a good #1 Camalot straight down at the back of a small ledge. Then step left and up the flake/crack. I felt this was about 9+ with 5.6 vs. Gear is good on the hard parts.
By Steven Lucarelli From: Glenwood Springs, CO Sep 21, 2009 rating: 5.10d R
I climbed this route yesterday via the route in the guide book and you do start about 50' up hill from where the 2nd rap touches down. The first 30' or so climbs up the right side of a huge block leaning against the main wall that is unprotected but not that hard, maybe 5.8. Once on top of the block you can place a bomber stopper at your feet but there is no other pro until your through the crux. If you look up on the face above the block you will also see an old quarter inch bolt and another bolt sleeve but there are no hangers so they are useless. The crux of the route is traversing right off the block onto a thin face and getting to a good crack about 8' out right.
The holds on this traverse are pretty thin and you would probably get beat up if you fell here because you would fall into the crack formed by the block leaning against the wall. Once your through the crux you can place a bomber cam for your second and then continue traversing right on easier face climbing with several gear placements along the way. The climbing after the crux and up the crack to the 2nd rap station is no harder than 5.9 but some of the rock on the traverse is a little hollow sounding.
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