Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Flatiron Queen Anne's Head WC Fields Pinnacle The Ghetto East Ironing Board West Ironing Board The Fin Green Thumb Jaws
This is the obvious crack in the above photograph. Perhaps the hardest move is just getting off the ground. Near the top you can clip a bolt on the sport route left of this crack. This route is only about 50' long. There are 2 bolts west of the summit for a belay anchor and to rap down west.
....Bring some thin gear (small wires). From the base of the crack it looks like a hand crack, but after the first moves, it gets thin.
It's not so obvious what to do when you get to the ledge at the top of the crack. Going straight up is hard (11?). Walk left about 10 feet to a bush and up from there. You can get gear before pulling onto the next ledge. Back right to a two bolt belay.
We didn't like those two bolts for rappelling (rusty), and getting to the bolts at the top of Farniente looked hard, so we downclimbed the east side and descended as per Green Corner and Diagonal Finger Crack.
Ignore my comment above about the names of Green Crack and Green Corner being reversed. As George Bell said in an e-mail to me correcting my correction, perhaps the names should be switched, but the names as listed on this web site do indeed match the Rossiter guide.
Ivan Rezucha
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Sep 10, 2006 rating: 5.9
If finished by the bolt to the left of the arete and belly to that bolt, the move is probably 5.11a, and height-dependent. I am about of average height, if you consider my monkey-length arms, and I still had to deadpoint from a good edge and smears for feet to the top.
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