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The Spy
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East Ridge 
Spy Vs. Spy 

East Ridge 

5.3 R

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.3 [details]
Views: 751 page views

Submitted By: George Bell on Apr 3, 2001


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Rafe Wilson on the first pitch taken from the bela...


Description 

Another fun Flatiron route with a reasonably short approach. This climb is approcimately 300' long. The bottom of the east face of the Spy is connected to the north edge of the First Flatironette. Climb this face near it's north (right) edge to a five foot vertical step, where the Spy becomes a separate rock. Climb over the step either on the left (5.3) or right (slightly harder).

Now follow the narrowing arete to the summit. Very exposed and not much pro. Since you are on a narrow fin, a fall by either leader or follower could result in a pendulum down either side, and it might be hard to return to the route.

From the summit, continue west and pass an overhang by means of a jump. Hike back down the north side of the rock.


Protection 

Light rack



Add Photo Photos of East Ridge
Warren flying up the Spy.

Warren flying up the Spy.

Warren concentrating at the crux section of the route.

Warren concentrating at the crux section of the ro...

Jen about to Jump.

Jen about to Jump.

Looking down the Spy

Looking down the Spy

Joe Mac just went through what I believed to be the crux.

Joe Mac just went through what I believed to be th...


Add Comment Comments on East Ridge
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By Roger Wilkerson
Feb 1, 2003

As an alternate approach, climb the first flatironette to the 'summit', then move over to the Spy. This will leave you with roughly half of this route. If you like exposure, the top of this rock will serve it up.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 22, 2003

A good combo is to do this route and then the North Arete on the First Flatiron.

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 7, 2004

a note about getting off of the spy: near the top, after crossing the flat blocky section, stay on the fin and belay off a big flake on the top. to get back to the ground, scramble down off the fin (very easy and safe - this is not "the jump"), then climb up the slab directly behind you. "the jump" is off of the top left corner of the slab. not as bad as it looks at first sight. if one of you is more confident than the other, you can sling the top of the slab you jump to with a tied off cordelette and tie your partner off to give them a bit more confidence.

a fun route.

By Mike Mc
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 17, 2007

The Spy is actually a good climb with really solid holds. Seeing the level of exposure on all sides, if nothing else, a rope would have been a pychological booster! I'm not sure where the 'jump' was, it's been a while, but I remember getting off the summit as being pretty straight-forward.

By Ebb
From: Vancouver, WA
Jul 23, 2008
rating: 5.3 R

There's a real nice photo up above of "the jump." Definitely unnerving the first time you try it, but it looks much worse (from the jumper's vantage point) than it is! :)