Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Flatiron Queen Anne's Head WC Fields Pinnacle The Ghetto East Ironing Board West Ironing Board The Fin Green Thumb Jaws
Following the first crux move past the hangerless ...
Description
This is an exciting route up the steep west prow of the Third Flatiron. It follows directly up the final rappel on the standard descent, so try to do it when nobody is coming down (mid-week early mornings?). It is also easily toproped from the rap anchor.
Approach by taking the 3rd Flatiron access trail, and continue past the East face between the 2nd and 3rd Flatirons until you reach the west face of the 3rd. Alternatively, climb the east face first and after rapping you will be right at the start.
The climb is a half pitch long. It is more difficult and not as well protected as Friday's Folly, and the rock is also a little worse.
Start where the rap ends (left of the Friday's Folly crack) and scramble up to a steep face with a hangarless bolt (plus two other chopped bolts). This bolt provides the only protection for the first difficult stemming move. Soon you reach better handholds and a thin crack, move on up past a large detached block below a roof with an obvious thin crack above it. This block appears to be quite solid (the best pro is right behind it).
There is a piton at the start of the thin crack that you can clip. Don't climb the thin crack (would be quite hard), but use face holds to move up and right. Then traverse back left on big holds below a roof to the top of the thin crack. Easier moves then lead straight up a V-Slot to the eye bolt rappel anchor.
This cruxes on this route are short, but involve balancy moves with small handholds.
There is a great variation of this route that you can do to spice it up and make it a bit harder. This should be the preferred finish for a solid 5.10 leader, if you ask me.
Follow Saturday's Folly past the face climbing just right of a thin seam- and get to the point where you would go left under an overhang to an easy corner.
DON'T GO LEFT. Set yourself up at the base of the bulging arete and pull diectly through the overhang, continuing up the arete until you reach the fixed belay station up 15 feet above. (eye bolts) This can be reasonably protected from below for the opening moves, just before the overhang (5.10c crux). After a few moves, the climbing lets up.
I called this "The Super Direct." No claims on the FA however. FA= ???
You CAN get pro for the first moves. You can get gear below the ledge you start from to keep you from falling all the way, a yellow Alien up and left (a bit shallow) and a pink tricam in a right facing flake just above (takes up a hand hold). These two pieces are not bomber but good enough considering you are toproped at that point.
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