This is a tricky route and of surprisingly different character form Tits. The tough stuff on The Big Picture comes right away, and as far as I am concerned, from the very first bolt. The Big Picture leans a bit to the right and chases an indistinct system of crystals. It seemed as though once you had latched on to one of these things you had to milk it for 180 degrees, and these are cruddy little quartze inclusions with very little to grab on to and lousy frictional feet. Get back on your feet above bolt 3 and ease into a right facing corner system. Climbing stays moderately difficult from here to the anchor and through two small overlaps. While things are probably not harder than 5.11+, almost no move is easier than 5.11. I would tip the route toward hard 5.12b because of the relentlessness of the climbing. If you slip past the crystals, then it is a pretty reasonable bet to pull the red point since the really hard stuff is over in the first 20 feet. This great line gets three stars by any measure, just jump on it.
Protection
The 80 ft of climbing need only 8 - 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
Rossiter gives this line a rating of 12a, but I agree that it is probably harder (5.12b). The opening moves are very crimpy, just keep working the feet up. Although the climbing eases up after clipping the third bolt, there is still no rest until the fourth bolt, and then its sustained balancy moves through the shallow corner. Beware, its a good ways run out on hard reachy moves after the sixth bolt, but once you gain the ledge at bolt 7 its only 5.10 to the anchors. A stellar line, well worth the effort!
A beautiful route on a beautiful wall. A little cruxy low in the shallow dihedral, but much easier than the first part of the route. A thin move out right before moving back left keeps you on you toes.
By Zed From: Gotham City Aug 21, 2007 rating: 5.12b
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