Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: The Goose Goose Eggs East Ridge Mars Block Nebel Horn Tower of the Moon Jamcrack Spire The Pyramid Incognito Crag Devil's Thumb Shadow Fax Isolation Rock Sunset Wall Devil's Wing (W. Face) The Matron Lost & Found The Sibling Toddler Rock
Start up on the ramp to the left of Deserted Cities and follow the bolts to the same anchor as Deserted Cities. A few runout sections have cracks for the mentioned pro. Excellent face climbing to a great summit.
Descent: A single bolt with a ring or traverse 20ft. to double rings. A single 50m rap to ledge then downclimb ledge.
Protection
8 QDs plus a #0.5 and #2.5 Friend to a single bolt anchor. Bring a #4 Friend if you don't feel comfortable with a single bolt.
Location
This is located on the west side of the Goose. Approach via the Fern Canyon trail. There are some sections which are looser on the approach.
The intent was to traverse out to the double bolt anchors on the right (South). If you look around you can get in some gear close enough to the bolt. These days I'd probably put in two.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Jan 27, 2003 rating: 5.10b
Good climb overall. Note [the] warning about [supplementing] the bolts with gear. I saw the line and mistakenly presumed that it was all bolted, as the [Rossiter] book shows it pretty well evenly spaced. Somewhere about in the middle of the climb I was 25+ feet above gear and only 50' above a pretty good sized ledge. It is X-rated without the gear, you will be looking at a bone-smashing fall from 5.8+ (?) moves just before the next bolt. With pro- no big deal, it would be solid if placed well.
By Scott Conner From: Lyons, CO Nov 30, 2003 rating: 5.10c
Cool Route! Fun overhanging start. Definite crux at the second bolt but the whole climb is consistent at .8 or .9. I only took a #1 and #2 Camalot on this climb (in addition to the draws). I plugged the #1 in the first horizontal crack (between bolts 3 and 4, I think) but the #2 was too small for the next placement (a #3.5 Camalot maybe??) so it was pretty run-out to the next bolt. As Tony says, no gear would be X rated with a possible decker.
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