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Angel Wings Apostle, The Bongo Boulder Cubicle Crag Devil's Advocate Devil's Horns Devil's Thumb Devil's Wings, Eastern Slabs Devil's Wings, West Face Fatiron Fern Canyon Flying Flatiron Goose, The Isolation Rock Jamcrack Spire Keel, The Lost And Found Maiden, The Major Maroon Boulder Matron, The Overhang Rock Pyramid Saqqara Seal Rock Shadowfax Shanahan Crag Sibling, The Slab, The Sphinx, The Sunset Wall Terrain Boulders Tiny Tower Toddler Rock Tower Of The Moon Upper Blues Boulders
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DescriptionThis section of the Flatirons holds some of the best climbing in the Flatirons, but it seems to be less crowded. For the purposes of this organization, this section extends from Bear Canyon to Eldorado Canyon. Great rocks such as the Maiden, Matron, Devil's Thumb, Nebel Horn, Seal Rock, and the Goose offer lower end difficulty climbs for beginner trad leaders and also more challenging trad lines. Excellent sport routes also can be found, some several pitches in length. The longest line in the area can be found here. There is plenty to explore here. Getting ThereThe approaches vary depending on where you're headed. For rocks like the Matron, take the South Mesa Trail head from the open space park on the way to Eldorado Canyon SP off CO Hwy 170. Otherwise, N. Shanahan trail from Table Mesa or Fern Canyon via the Mesa Trail from NCAR. See specific routes for exact directions. AccessVarious of the Flatirons are closed for falcon nesting from Feb 1 up to July 31 and for bat nesting Apr 1 to Aug 31. Historically, some of these in this area have included The Matron, Towers of the Moon, Jam Crack Spire, Devil's Thumb, Nebel Horn, Jaws, The Fin, Fern Canyon, The Goose, The Goose Eggs, and possibly others. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South:
East Face South Side 5.4 Trad Seal Rock
East Face North Side/Seal Rock 5.4 Trad, 4 pitches, 800 feet Seal Rock
East Face/Fatiron 5.4 Trad Fatiron
East Ridge 5.5 Trad, 3 pitches The Matron
North Face 5.6 Trad, 3 pitches The Matron
North Face 5.6 R Trad, Grade II The Maiden
West Face 5.8 R Trad, TR The Matron
South Face 5.8 R Trad The Maiden
Fountain of Youth 5.10b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch Fern Canyon : East Ridge
East Ridge 5.10 Trad, 5 pitches The Maiden
West Overhang 5.11a Trad, 2 pitches The Maiden
Dream Street Rose 5.11b/c Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet The Maiden
South Crack 5.11c Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet The Maiden
Just Another Boy's Climb 5.11d Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 100 feet The Slab
Family Man 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet The Slab
The Big Picture 5.12b Sport Overhang Rock
Chains of Love 5.12b Trad, Sport Fern Canyon : Fiddle Head
Snake Watching 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet Overhang Rock
Featured Route For South
 This sport route is shown in Rossiter's topo on p.68, but does not include a description in the book. It was originally bolted in the 1980s.Locate the obvious South Face route in a blocky dihedral. Move 20 feet left of this dihedral and locate a bolted line. Scramble up onto a ledge with a small tree to get started. Work up past a bolt to a small roof. Clip a second bolt, then pull over the bulge. Continue up past a 2 more bolts and a lost ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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