Mountain Project: Climbing Flatirons

There are many rocks to explore in this area. In fact, this section of the Flatirions probably hosts the greatest number of distinct crags in the Flatirons. It is complex enough that even locals will get lost when climbing the more obscure crags here. The "Central" zone spans Bear Canyon arbitrarily to the Ironing Boards (just S. of the 3rd Flatiron). Those seeking solitude can find it here at the less-popular crags. Slabmongers can have many field days exploring the numerous mini Flatirons, and there's a lots of trad routes and even some sport routes among these rocks. There's even room for new routing. Have fun in this scenic setting.

Getting There

The main starting points are from NCAR (at the terminus of Table Mesa) for rocks near Dinosaur Mt/Skunk Canyon or possibly Chautauqua (off Baseline near 9th Ave) for rocks near the Ironing Boards. See specific rock pages for directions.

Access

Various of the Flatirons are closed for falcon nesting from Feb 1 up to July 31 and for bat nesting Apr 1 to Aug 31. Historically, some of these in this area have included Bear Creek Spire, Harmon Cave (bats), East Face of The Hand (bats), East Face of The Finger Flatiron (bats), East Face of Der Zerkle (bats), Dreadnaught, Achean Pronoucement, Skunk Canyon Ridge 2 & west, Sacred Cliffs, and possibly others.

Please check with city of Boulder Open Space & Mountain Parks at 303-441-3440 before heading up there. Also, 303.441.4060 ext 420 & x 416 can provide information.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Central:

East Ridge 4th Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet Hammerhead

Yodeling Moves 5.0 Trad, 3 pitches Hammerhead

Angel's Way 5.2 Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1200 feet Skunk Canyon : Ridge 3 aka Angel's Way

Stairway to Heaven 5.3 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III Skunk Canyon : Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Hea...

East Face, North Side 5.3 R Trad, 7 pitches, Grade II Fifth Flatiron

East Face/Royal Arch 5.4 Trad, 2 pitches Royal Arch

East Face South Side or Left 5.5 Trad, 3 pitches Fifth Flatiron

Takin' Care of Business/ West Chimney 5.5 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Green Mountain Pinnacle

East Face/Back Porch 5.6 Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II Backporch

East Face Left Side 5.6 Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet Der Zerkle

Northeast Face 5.6 R Trad, 4 pitches Fifth Flatiron

What If You're Not? 5.7 Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet Der Zerkle

Satan's Slab 5.8 R Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches Skunk Canyon : Ridge 2 aka Satan's Slab

Touch Monkey 5.11b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Der Zerkle

Death and Transfiguration 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Green Mountain Pinnacle

April Fools 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Der Zerkle

Discipline 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet The Box

Yellow Christ 5.12b Trad, TR, 1 pitch Square Rock

Street Hassle 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch Der Freischutz

Power Bulge 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet The Hand

Featured Route For Central

Bob Horan on 2nd free ascent of Doric Dihedral.

Doric Dihedral 5.12 R CO : Flatirons : ... : Ridge 2 aka Satan's Slab

I am not the authority to provide historical info on this route nor can I tell you how the dihedral fits into the classical order of Greek architecture. I can tell you of its monumental early free ascent (you are still my hero Chip)...Hey, he made a cover shot! Doric Dihedral is one of the quintessential 5.12 "old school" routes in Boulder. Fading into sublime obscurity and rarely free-climbed in the original fashion. Hard moves including aesthet...[more] Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Central

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By Anonymous Coward
Jan 20, 2004

I went for a hike in the Flatirons the other day and had a look at the route Watchmaker steady. It kinda looks like those holds were chiseled seeing as they don't look anything like any of the other features on the rock. Not only that but for a few body lengths the route looks very ladder like, and yet this route is not on the manufactured routes list. Is it natural?

By Guy Humphrey
From: Fort Collins CO
Dec 13, 2004

Access to Shunk and Shadow Canyon will also be affected by the OSMP visitor plan. Please review the plan's details and phone/email the council members about your concerns.

By ac
Dec 13, 2004

Guy- you are mistaken. Shadow and Skunk Canyon are not in the proposed HCA areas. The affected areas include Eldorado Mountain and the west side of Boulder/Green Mountains.

See the map of the management zones (the HCAs colored green are the areas closed to off-trail use) at:

http://www.ci.boulder.co.us/openspace/visitor_plan/V-Plan-Dr>>>>>

By Guy Humphrey
From: Fort Collins CO
Dec 14, 2004

AC, I found the following comment in the pointer listed below.

"Implement a permit system for climbs in lower Skunk Canyon and south of Shadow Canyon." pg15

http://www.ci.boulder.co.us/openspace/visitor_plan/V-Plan-PD>>>>>

I am really not sure which areas would be affected by this permit system, or whether this document is part of the VMP.

By Tony B
From: Boulder, CO
May 6, 2007

Has anyone climbed the East Face South or the crack on the West side? I'd love to hear more about those routes...

By Paul Glover
Sep 7, 2009

Someone recently ticked the hell out of Milk Bone. Giant, foot long ticks clearly visible from the trail. Overticking is super lame to begin with and draws attention to the crag and our scene which we need to keep super low key so we can keep this new-routing thing going. Someone has had their draws on this route for over a month now. Whoever it is please remove your draws so we don't attract negative flack from hikers or rangers. If you need to hang the draws it is easy to 4th class to the summit of Dino from the west and do a short rap off a giant flake to the anchors. And be cool to hikers no matter what retarded yum-yums they are.

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Central

Description

Getting There

Access

The Classics