This is Pinch Bulge (V2) from the ground. The route on the right side of the wall though the dihedral groove and over. From the ground are obvious sit down holds and bad feet. Throw to the good flake above via big hard move. Move through easy holds and throw to top or mantle and reach.
Protection
A crashpad is nice but not necessary since crux is first move.
Alight, I'll bite. This problem does climb the right side of the groove on the right side of the Y (aka Upper Long) Traverse, but other than that the beta above is a bit vague.
Start, butt on the ground, about 10 feet left of the very right side of the wall, both hands on incut crimps in a diagonalling horizontal that is also the foothold rail for the Y-Traverse. Put your right foot high and paste the left, then throw *far* with the right hand to the incut, crescent-shaped flake at about 5 feet. Missing this move sucks, as you'll lose skin on the sharp lip of the flake. This flake is also part of the Y-Traverse, and marks the end of the crux section if you're traversing left to right.
Now, you kind of have to follow "the rules." Lock the flake off with your right hand (no matching allowed) and twist into a pinch for the left hand. It is about about a foot above the big slopey ledge feature (chalky as all hell) atop the right side of the groove. Work the thumb catch, and jack your feet up onto little crumbly Flag bumps (they're usually ticked or chalked somehow). As you get higher over your hips, tugging on the pinch, you'll see a nice grainy sloper for the right hand. This hold is "off" for the full V5 rating, but also makes for a convenient intermediate if you're having trouble with the move or don't feel like falling.
Grab the top of the wall with your right hand and top out.
There are endless variations on this part of the wall; one of the better ones is to do this problem but, at the start, reach left for a sidepull crimp on the right side of the groove, heel-hook your right foot on the rail, and then reef for the flake. This will save you some frustration and agony if you're having trouble with the dyno to the flake.
Yeah, this is the "Tall Man Shutdown"; you know, I have heard V6/7 thrown at it, so maybe the problem being described above is actually the easier version of such, using the hold out left. I dunno. I know this problem makes my elbows hurt.
What follows are edited descriptions of the aforementioned problems from the unpublished 650 problem Flagstaff Mountain Bouldering Map & Guide. I'm not saying these descriptions are 100% right, but this is amalgamation of what I've been told over the years by numerous people. Neither of these problems ever appeared in a guidebook prior to PB's CO Bouldering and only Pinch Bulge was in there. These problems to some extent illustrate the nightmare that historic bouldering areas can present when someone comes along and tries to document that history. Anyway ...
Pinch Bulge V3 / V5 sds: From the sharp flakey edge pinch the next slopey corner with your left hand and move up with your right hand to any number of intermediate holds and go to the top. A sds begins below on shallow pocketed edges that became much smaller in 2002 when the rail that used to exist exploded.
Tall Man Shutdown V6 sds: A difficult problem to describe and a contrivance at best, but here goes ... From the same sit-down start as Pinch Bulge, swing to the sharp flake. Now crossover with your left to the highest sloping corner which has a thin edge (this hold is 12-15 inches up and right from the left hand on Pinch Bulge). Really work your feet and move up with your right hand toward the top. One little crappy intermediate may help.
Commentary: Just like most problems on Flag, there are numerous sequences people use to start and finish problems. As I abhor eliminates and problems with "rules," when possible I've chosen to allow people to find their own way to the top. Admittedly, I did guide them to specific left handholds as I understood them to be, but other than that I left it up to the climber. Comments?
Sorry for the bad beta description. The line, to me, looks and moves fairly natural if you find the starting holds.Without knowing the history and/or contrivance of it I added it plainly to get the climber there. Thanks for clearing things up Matt and Chip.
After readong Matt's comments above AGAIN, the hold he describes that you TWIST up into from the flake and kind of get a thumb catch on is the hold on Tall Man Shut Down that I describe as sort of having a good edge.
Thoroughly confused? ... Screw it, invent your own variations or maybe ask someone. Have fun at the Upper Y. The best thing about the Upper Y, aside from the excellent traverse, is the sheer number of VB-V4 problems. Sixteen or so without getting TOO contrived. Enjoy!!!
Upper Y Traverse
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