Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall
|
Asahi T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Astral Traveller T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
|
|
Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Culp's Fault T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Dark Matter T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Don't Panic, It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
|
|
Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
|
|
Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
Mighty Mouse S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
|
|
Monks in the Gym T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
|
|
Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
|
|
Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
|
|
Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
|
|
Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Red Arete, The S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
|
|
Red Dihedral T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
|
|
Shiva's Dance T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
|
|
Stigmata T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
|
|
Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Turnabout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Rob Candelaria, solo, 1976 |
| Page Views: | 1,803 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Ivan Rezucha on Oct 15, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Access Issue: Permit require to access? Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through Aug. 12? - each year
Details
Per Tony B: according to this recently published map, Micky Mouse Wall is now in an HCA and requires a permit to visit: maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi….
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is projected to be closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Click here bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for more details.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is projected to be closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Click here bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for more details.
Description
Per George Bracksieck: P1 of Flakes is a steep, short, lichen-infested thin-hands on the right side of the Prow. This is harder than 5.8.
[P2 of Flakes] is an [obscure old line] that climbs directly to the start of Mausoleum and from there angles right to the top of Oblique Streak. The climbing is good, although indirect at the bottom, and the rock quality is for the most part excellent. The crux comes early, but there are two more interesting secondary cruxes to follow. The [second] pitch serves as a better first pitch for Mausoleum than Oblique Streak.
Pitch [2]) Scramble up to a slanting ledge. You could belay there. Step up to the bottom of the slot. Make a difficult crux move left and up from the top of the slot to a right angling shallow groove. The rock here looks deceivingly low angle from the ground. Use long slings here. Follow the groove awkwardly right, passing a fun thread, to a stance below a ceiling that leads to a left-facing corner. Instead of making the crux move left and back right, it appears to be possible to climb a nice face directly to the ceiling, but there is no gear. There are two chockstones in the ceiling. The bottom one rocks but appears to be safe. The top one is solid. A 5.8 or so move leads over the ceiling to a stance on the chockstones. With some difficulty, get in gear at the next ceiling (deep inside, on the right, and/or high on the left). Layback past the left side of the next ceiling at 5.9 or so and then up easier rock to the 2-bolt anchors at the base of Mausoleum.
Pitch [3]) Angle right along a relatively easy and somewhat dirty crack past a 5.8 move near the top to the tree at the top of Oblique Streak.
[P2 of Flakes] is an [obscure old line] that climbs directly to the start of Mausoleum and from there angles right to the top of Oblique Streak. The climbing is good, although indirect at the bottom, and the rock quality is for the most part excellent. The crux comes early, but there are two more interesting secondary cruxes to follow. The [second] pitch serves as a better first pitch for Mausoleum than Oblique Streak.
Pitch [2]) Scramble up to a slanting ledge. You could belay there. Step up to the bottom of the slot. Make a difficult crux move left and up from the top of the slot to a right angling shallow groove. The rock here looks deceivingly low angle from the ground. Use long slings here. Follow the groove awkwardly right, passing a fun thread, to a stance below a ceiling that leads to a left-facing corner. Instead of making the crux move left and back right, it appears to be possible to climb a nice face directly to the ceiling, but there is no gear. There are two chockstones in the ceiling. The bottom one rocks but appears to be safe. The top one is solid. A 5.8 or so move leads over the ceiling to a stance on the chockstones. With some difficulty, get in gear at the next ceiling (deep inside, on the right, and/or high on the left). Layback past the left side of the next ceiling at 5.9 or so and then up easier rock to the 2-bolt anchors at the base of Mausoleum.
Pitch [3]) Angle right along a relatively easy and somewhat dirty crack past a 5.8 move near the top to the tree at the top of Oblique Streak.
Location
Getting there:
Just uphill from the wildly overhanging Industrial Wall at the bottom of Mickey Mouse is a lower angle wall whose top is where Garden of Stone is located. In the center of this wall is the angling crack system of Oblique Streak. The left side of this wall is bounded at the bottom by the short Prow (or Ship's Prow) buttress and at the top by an obvious, red, right-facing corner whose left wall is the huecoed arete of Mausoleum. [This route starts to the right of The Prow.] The bottom of Cryptomaniac is marked by a short, left-angling slot about 30' off the ground that is clearly visible from the right but barely visible from directly below.
Getting down:
There are several options for getting down. By far the easiest it to rap with two ropes from the tree at the top to ground. The next best option is to do only the first pitch and rap from the bolts at the base of Mausoleum. I think, but can't verify, that you can get to the ground or the first ledge, from there with a 60m rope. A third option is to walk down from Garden of Stone. If you don't know the way, you could end up trashing weeds and even end up on the wrong side of the tunnel. Another option would be to do an extremely diagonal rap along the way from the top to the Mausoleum anchors. This looked very dangerous. The last option is to rap from the top with one rope and hope you can find or build an anchor somewhere along the way. Note that Oblique Streak diagonals more than it seems, and you would end up in the middle of the wall to the right of Oblique Streak. You might be able to get to the easier rock below Industrial Wall.
Just uphill from the wildly overhanging Industrial Wall at the bottom of Mickey Mouse is a lower angle wall whose top is where Garden of Stone is located. In the center of this wall is the angling crack system of Oblique Streak. The left side of this wall is bounded at the bottom by the short Prow (or Ship's Prow) buttress and at the top by an obvious, red, right-facing corner whose left wall is the huecoed arete of Mausoleum. [This route starts to the right of The Prow.] The bottom of Cryptomaniac is marked by a short, left-angling slot about 30' off the ground that is clearly visible from the right but barely visible from directly below.
Getting down:
There are several options for getting down. By far the easiest it to rap with two ropes from the tree at the top to ground. The next best option is to do only the first pitch and rap from the bolts at the base of Mausoleum. I think, but can't verify, that you can get to the ground or the first ledge, from there with a 60m rope. A third option is to walk down from Garden of Stone. If you don't know the way, you could end up trashing weeds and even end up on the wrong side of the tunnel. Another option would be to do an extremely diagonal rap along the way from the top to the Mausoleum anchors. This looked very dangerous. The last option is to rap from the top with one rope and hope you can find or build an anchor somewhere along the way. Note that Oblique Streak diagonals more than it seems, and you would end up in the middle of the wall to the right of Oblique Streak. You might be able to get to the easier rock below Industrial Wall.
4 Comments