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Emergency Brake 

5.9+

   

FA: Dan Hare and John Warren
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 62 page views

Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Oct 13, 2009


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BETA PHOTO: Emergency Brake.


Description 

This route is just to the right of Rush Buick. It starts below two bolts just to the right of that dihedral. It's hard to tell from the ground, but the bolts are buttonheads (at least when I did the route; maybe they've been upgraded). Anyway, start with an awkward, but well-protected move to get going. I found the crux to be passing the second bolt. After that bolt began a rising traverse to the right underneath an overhang with gear in somewhat crunchy rock. After traversing for a bit (it's fairly obvious when to stop traversing), head straight up to the anchor atop Nobody's Home and belay there. There's a bit of a runout at the end but the climbing is relatively easy. Descend by making a 100ft rappel from the anchor. Overall, I found the pitch to a be little heads-up so it might not be a great one to test your limits.


Location 

This route is located a few feet to the right of Rush Buick. Get yourself to that route and look for two bolts just right of Rush Buick's dihedral; that's the start of the route.


Protection 

A standard rack will do. When I climbed this last year the bolts were buttonheads. It would probably be best not to see if they can hold a fall.



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By Dave Holliday
From: Louisville, CO
Oct 27, 2009

The bolts appear to have been upgraded to modern hardware. I was looking at them from the ground today and they appear relatively new. If I get a chance to climb the route and verify the new hardware (or if someone else happens to go up there) then I'll update the route description above.