To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
This route begins at the end of the first pitch of the Direct Start to Super Slab in an incipient crack above a 2' to 4' high piece of deadwood. The crack ends about 20 or 25 feet up. The route goes straight up from the top of the crack and to the Lower Ramp on very small holds. The rock is clean and solid. The rating is based on what I was generally capable of at the time, but may be erroneous (harder).
Location
Start about 20 or 25 feet right of the second pitch of the Direct Start to Super Slab. The deadwood may no longer be there, but the crack is the only feature between the old aid line (erroneously attributed to me and Chris Revely) and the sharp arete to the right.
Protection
There is one tiny brass placement in the crack. Otherwise there is no protection. I would advise you to take this pitch *very* seriously. It deserves its X rating! On the first ascent in 1973 a 165' rope caused the second to have to climb up a way in order to set a dubious belay. Take a 60 meter rope!
P.S. Jim Erickson has the route description, but not the rating (my fault) right in Rocky Heights, 1980. I'd give this four stars if it were better protected.
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