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Milton Boulder
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Donna 
Milton 
Undercling Problem 

Milton 

V4

   
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FA: Unknown
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V4 [details]
Views: 132 page views

Submitted By: pfwein on Jul 19, 2009


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Hitting the lip on Milton.


Description 

Pull onto SW face of Milton boulder, go up to obvious crystal with right hand, and sloping crimper several feet up and to left of crystal with left hand. From there, shoot to top (best hold is a little right of low point) and mantel.


Location 

Should be easy to find: if there is car parked W of Milton, it may block the problem. The SW face of Milton boulder right of Milton problem has very difficult problems such as Never Say Never.


Protection 

Not highball and has good landing, but pad is nice for the many falls from the lip that a moderate boulderer may take.



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By pfwein
From: South Boulder
Jul 19, 2009

Colorado Bouldering by P. Benningfield rates V3. That's strange, as the inventor of the V rating system, J. Sherman, uses Milton as an example of the benchmark for V4. (See Hueco Tanks, Climbing and Bouldering Guide, 2nd ed., Chockstone Press Inc., 1995, p. 20).
Not a big deal, but I've always been a little miffed at Benningfield: Milton does not seem like a problem to downrate.
My beta: either R or L foot onto obvious, greaser hold, then go to top with L hand. I've seen others use R foot up and R of greaser hold, and go to top with R hand. Mantel exit is much easier but not totally trivial.
I've done this on warm summer days: maybe it's easy when cooler. Beautiful moderate/hard problem.