To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
Matt Lloyd on the FA of the variation route "Real ...
Description
This really is not a new route but a variation to two already existing great routes. Climb "Breakfast Of Champions" for a few moves clip the fixed wire and traverse right through the steep blank looking rock to the end of "Captain Crunch" just below the last bolt (FA chose to skip the bolt) on the route. Then climb the last 15 feet of Captain Crunch.
Location
The Pick Pocket Wall.
Protection
Bring a small RP, a few small BD wires and a grey Metolius FCU and run it out.
BTW- the route would not really be "R" if you clip the bolt on CC (maybe only pg-13), but Matt decided that it would be a better route if it was put up with all natural gear. Also, double ropes really help, since the pro in the BoC corner and the pro after the traverse to CC are at the same height.
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