To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
Bob Horan, barefoot, and Chip Ruckgaber on Mellow ...
Description
Climbs a series of dihedrals and roofs on the southwest face of Tower One.
P1, at a northwestern point of the Upper Ramp, climb over a roof to a dihedral,5.9, leading to a belay below the prominent apex roof.
P2, Climb up and through the steep apex of the roof, 5.11d, to a slab belay above.
P3, climb over the next roof system, 5.11c,and up to the top of the dihedral and belay.
P4, Climb up to the next large roof with a thin crack splitting it. Climb out left, 5.9, under the roof, and connect with the last pitch of the Yellow Spur. Climb out the thin crack in the roof at 5.12a, via bolts, for added difficulty.
Location
Climbs a series of dihedrals and roofs on the southwest face of Tower One.
By Scott Bennett From: Superior, CO Mar 4, 2009 rating: 5.11d
Some of these comments are already covered under the link-up "Mellow Fellow", but I thought I'd add them here for completeness.
This is a great climb, and the hard climbing is well protected. The 11d crux on p1 sports a fixed pin that gives a top rope for the hardest moves, and this can be backed with good gear a few feet lower. Just above the lip of the roof, there is a perfect slot for a #2 Camalot.
There is a fixed sling/piton/nut anchor at the top of p1, so one could rap from here, but P2 is also very good and interesting. It gets hard right off the belay, fortunately there are a few fixed pins here. After clipping the last pin, one can go straight up into the corner; this looked hard. We reached out right to some great huecos and pulled over the roof this way. After the roof, this pitch gets much easier (5.9ish), but the protection is small and well spaced.
I would be interested in trying the 12a seam variation for the last pitch, but we were scared off by the rotten looking bolts (1/4" buttonheads w/ Leeper hangers?). I don't know anything about replacing bolts- do you have to apply for permission with the park? If anyone with knowledge and experience wants to get up there and put some good hardware in, feel free to send me an email and I'll come out and help. -Scott
RSS Feed
