To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
A very sweet line and a must do. A natural final pitch after Vertigo, Doub-Griffith, Super Slab, etc.... Or upon rapping CC, do this and rap it again. From the base of Chockstone Chimney, step right and climb R facing corner to where you can traverse R. across face (same as Italian Arete, I believe). From the arete, climb straight up over roof, passing obvious horn (I slung it as this feels a bit committing). Then follow crack system to the top, passing crux thin section on overhanging, neon lichen face (looks like it could be a closed seam from the ground, it's not!), cool moves!. Move left up high and pull the upper roof at a hand crack. Belay on large ledge to hear your 2nd better or wander to the top on easy but blocky rock. This line is well protected (YMMV, use your best judgment) and super fun! I scoped this line and got super excited, thought I did the first ascent but hadn't done my homework. Oh well, it's now cleaned up and deserves to be popular. NOTE: This route may have suspect rock in places, so climb accordingly. I cleaned most of the portable handholds off but.... The crux section, however, seemed bomber.
A double set of cams through #3 Camalot and a set of nuts is more than enough. Doubles in #3 and #2 sizes were way nice. A green Alien slotted just when you want it. A bunch of shoulder slings and a couple doubles.
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