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Lower Peanuts
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Star Track 

5.8

   

FA: Mike Brooks, Chip Ruckgaber, 1980
Type: Trad, TR
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 234 page views

Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 1, 2002


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Description 

Another tick on Obscure Eldo route tour on Lower Peanuts. This is a neighbor of Star Wars, 1st pitch.

Find the ledge to the base of Star Wars. Loose, loose rock cover this ledge as you angle left and down to its start. Consider a belay to its base.

Find a crack system and move up on easier terrain. There is a loose wedged flake as you gain a long, horizontal edge that rattles as you bump it. Perhaps 30 feet up the big holds run out. You can move left to some side pulls that feels sketchy for 5.8. Or, you can face climb right on terrain that feels harder than 5.8. Clip the newly replaced bolt (Thanks, Steve & Bob!). Step up and get a decent hold. Here's that spot for that 0.33 Alien. Traverse right to the top of the 1st pitch of Star Wars.

You can TR this line with directional pro from the top of the first pitch of Star Wars.


Protection 

Standard Eldo rack, 1 bolt, 0.33 Alien.



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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 16, 2002

Oh, yeah. I forgot to mention this. There is an interesting line between Star Track and Star Wars, 1st pitch. It starts up a crack that fades into thin face holds. Steeper than its neighbors. I wonder if anyone has done this previously?

By Steve Levin
Jul 31, 2006

The old bolt has been replaced with stainless 3/8".

The old bolt on "No Visible Means of Support" (not in data base) was also replaced.

The old bolt on "Jackson Browne" (not in data base) was also replaced.

By Bob D'Antonio
From: Superior, CO
Jul 31, 2006

I helped Steve replaced these bolts and would like to thank him for taking his time, supplying the gear and for his concern in making Eldo a safer place to climb. Good job Steve.

Steve...next time I'll just lend you the drill. LOL

By Steve Levin
Sep 15, 2006

I should add that Bob D' did all the work. Since it's hard to sandbag him on a climb, I had to do it this way.

By Steve Levin
Jul 15, 2007

The interesting line Leo mentions has been led. See "Do or Do Not".

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 15, 2007

Steve, way to go! You da man!

By Chris Zeller
From: Broomfield, CO
May 6, 2008

This route deserves the bomb. The loose flake and bushwacking under the tree brances tip you off that this climb isn't worth it. Step 10-20 feet right and do Star Wars instead.