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Cadillac Crag
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Escalade 
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Land of Ra 
Let it Vee 
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Shallow Dihedral 
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You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny 

Escalade 

5.10+ PG13

   

FA: Steve Levin, Dougald MacDonald, David Goldstein
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 135 feet
Views: 213 page views

Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Feb 17, 2008


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Description 

This long, varied, and challenging pitch climbs the south side of Fin 1, following the crack and corner line left of Ghetto Cruiser. A hard move over an overhang at the low point of Fin 1 gains a fun finger and hand crack. Step left at the end of the crack and climb a slab to the base of an overhang with an old piton anchor. Clip this with a very long sling, step back right, and stem a shallow corner and ramp. Mantel onto a good hold at the top of the ramp, place small to medium cams in a bomber slot, then do a hard move up and left, along a square-cut corner, to reach good wires and the top of the prominent flake system. Hand-traverse the wide flakes to finish in the chimney slot of Ghetto Cruiser.

This route has many 5.9 and 5.10 moves, with mostly good pro. There are short run-outs on the slab below the roof, on the upper ramp, and on the crux above the end of the ramp.


Protection 

A full Eldo rack, with emphasis on small cams and small wires, including RPs, plus at least one big piece (No. 3 to 4 Camalot) for the final flakes. A blue Alien or equivalent is very useful in the ramp section. Be careful to adequately extend any runners placed left of the main line or under roofs to reduce rope drag and prevent any danger from sharp edges. Double ropes might be useful.