This climbs the nice left-facing corner system just right of Pins and Needles. Climb a shattered left-facing groove past a dead tree to a break. Hand traverse left to sling a huge spike, then step back right and pull the overhang on seemingly good holds (crux). Gain a stance, then up right in the corner (some more 5.10) to a tree.
Good climbing, an exciting (and deceptive) crux, and quality rock. Led ground-up.
The name is a tip-of-the-hat to Wayne, Hank and Kevin for helping get Eldo back on the map!
Location
Upper West Ridge, Cirque of Cracks. Start at the right side of the alcove, where the trail turns west away from the wall.
Protection
RPs to 3.5", 48" sling for spike. Rappel 70 feet from a tree with (new) slings and rings.
Mark Hammond (and I and other folks) TR'd this line a few years back when we were establishing Backslash, which ends at the same tree. But as far as I know, none of us ever had the gumption to lead it, so it's great to see it get done (and ground-up, too!). As I recall, we thought the crux bulge might be harder than 5.10+, but Steve would know best.
Back up the little tree for TR'ing or belaying the second.
Nice, fun climbing and good position, good gear when you have it, challening and somewhat sustained at the grade. A fine addition to this 'sandbag alley' area, thanks for your effort Steve and Greg.
Steve and I also attempted to top rope the face to the right of Texas Two Step. It started up the face to a seam and very shallow, right-facing corner. We could pull off the ledge...avoided the mid-section, and then we were able to climb the shallow corner and up to the tree. 13 something for the mid section?
By my alias From: Eldorado Springs, CO Nov 15, 2007
Good work Steve and Greg. Really nice climbing. I guess I shouldn't have waited 3 years to get back to lead this, although it would have been a headpoint for me, the onsight is prouder. I was going to call it El Nino and blame the delay on parenthood. FYI, I gardened a bunch of mud out of the perfect cam (green Alien, I recall) placement right after the crux. It felt 11a to me, but I'm not too strong. Steve, let's get out and do some book research, I have another line to show you. Mark
West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony Express
RSS Feed
