Start behind the highest tree at the top of the Upper Ramp, about 25 feet to the right of Mellow Yellow, right below the obvious bolt. This is a mixed route and there is gear to be placed between the bolts. (I sure used a bunch!) 5 bolts plus gear.
Climb up to the 1st bolt, 5.8, step left and then up right, a small nut or brassie can be placed in a seam to the right. Move straight up to the 2nd bolt, 5.10 b/c, then up and left to a hollow flake, Follow the flake to the slanting ledge. Step left up the ledge, a few feet, until it is easy to reach up and place good gear in a left facing flake. Pull up off the ledge and move right to the 3rd bolt. Move right and up. A good nut can be placed on the left. Then step back to the right and up to the 4th bolt, 5.10 b/c.
Stretch up off small underclings to clip the 5th bolt. This is the business, getting up into the roof above, 5.11+. Gear only to the anchor. Undercling to the left end of the roof and place gear. Pumpy and difficult to place.
The best placements are in two, short slots just left, of the left end of the roof, small nut in the lower and a BLACK ALIEN in the higher slot.
Punch a couple of stout moves to a jug and climb a few more feet up to a rap anchor at the top of the first pitch of Mellow Yellow.
Back this anchor up! There is gear up and left in a flake 5 feet above, cams 1/2" - 1". Take plenty of slings or 2 cordelettes to rig the anchor. Once the anchor is rigged, it works to lower off to the ground and top rope.
Protection
Small brassies through med nuts, double set of Aliens or TCUs, plus gear to 1" for the anchor, lots of draws and runners. Addendum: the anchor tends to come & go. Consider bringing sling & cord to construct one.
We first top roped this route in January 2006. I installed the bolts on 9/8/07 and put new webbing on the rap anchor. Phil lead it, placing all the gear on lead. We ran out of time and it was hot so I went back and lead it a week later in beautiful cool conditions.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Oct 4, 2007 rating: 5.11d
Really sweet climb. Nice crisp edging on a beautiful wall. Unfortunately I had just led the crux pitch of the Wisdom, so I was a little wasted when I arrived at the crux. Initiating the crux roof/bulge is not really obvious. It was also really hot and sunny that day and I kept greasing off. I plan to go back when it's cooler and try it again. I think it's bolted just about right too. Keeps you on your toes. Solid 3 stars! Nice one guys...
FYI, someone removed a carefully built, rappel anchor at the top of this pitch as of February '08. It's one of those anchors in Eldo that comes and goes. I've seen this anchor used for over 20 years by climbers just doing the first pitch of Mellow Yellow. If you are intending to rappel, you'll need a sling for the flake and a piece of cord to back up the flake to a pin about 4 or 5 feet higher.
Redgarden - Tower One
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