To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
A two-star rating on this route reflects an experience significantly finer than my own- which involved trying to clean off some footholds to make them usable and also to clean out a few, thin placements so as to have some gear. The route upon starting was on fine rack, but down low was covered in a dusty lichen- the kind that sends you flying off of a route. It is presently clean enough to climb, but could still use a good brushing to make the climbing more fun and less enervating. After 50' the climbing turns the corner and gets far easier- finishing essentially up and right as if for the left side of the Body Tremors Wall. The crux is the first 50 feet.
Location
This is the rising seam/crack in the next major left facing corner left and up from Chockstone Chimney. This is but a few yards to the right of the start as for the 'South Face of Tower 1.' Belay in the shaded corner behind the tree as for EL 100, and climb up and left up a bulging, obtuse corner with a placement here and there.
Protection
A rack from RPs to 3". This route requires some skill to protect well and is not for pushing your limits on.
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