To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
The climbing on this route is similar its neighbor, Unknown, just not nearly as good, and the crux a little more..slabbish. Getting onto the wall from the wooden stairs is a little tricky, then easier climbing leads up to a stray bolt, which felt like a dicey clip for me. The crux follows, then the climb finishes on the rotten ledge below the roof. Scramble off to your left.
Location
This route is just uphill from Unknown, which is easy to find because of its two bolts. Once past this route, and while on the wooden stairs, search the base for the stray bolt up on the wall. This is Strangle Hold.
Protection
After the initial moves off the wooden stairs, there's a horizontal crack (by a small tree) that takes some gear, then one bolt.
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