This climb starts off as a really nice crack climb, from fists to tight hands. The crack leans to the left avoiding a roof, after which you can traverse right and finish up on rotten rock. A better option is to traverse left across the slab below the huge roof and join the crux for Self Abuse. With the use of slings this could all be done in one pitch without too much rope drag, and if it wasn't for a small section of bad rock, this would probably be one of the better pitches of crack climbing in Eldorado.
Location
This route is in the dihedral just uphill from the bolted route Heart of Gold and just downhill of the obvious roof of Self Abuse.
Protection
A standard rack with a #4 Camalot, if combining with Self Abuse, bring doubles in #2 and #3 sized Camalots.
By Eckhard From: Denver, CO Dec 28, 2008 rating: 5.8+
This climb is GREAT!! Little to no wind, starts off on a nice off-width. Face climbing at the top. The rotten rock appeared to be the top to us, which created a nice walk to some rap bolts to the left about 15ft. Stellar climb, stout too!
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