To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
Start up Magic Roof, clip the bolt on that route and move left and up across large hanging flakes. Once above the roof belay as for the first pitch of Yellow Spur,
Location
Right of Yellow Spur and left of the tree on Rocky Raccoon.
Protection
Small stoppers and cams with a back-up from the bolt on Magic Roof.