To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
Sub Slab climbs the middle of the face left of the top pitch of Slimy Spoon. Combined with Remention, this route provides a mini-Super Slab type experience. Sub Slab starts about 20ft up the ramp from the Slimy Spoon belay below a weakness in the middle of the roof band. Climb carefully up to the roof and stretch up to place a couple of good cams (1-1.5 inch) in an obvious vertical slot in the roof. Swing up and right (crux) through the roof, then trend up and left on ledges (5.8 s) to the base of an incipient seam that runs up the middle of the face. Follow this (9+) to the top.
Location
Face left of Slimy Spoon top pitch.
Protection
3.5 inch down to RPs. Expect run outs above the roof but on easier climbing. There's good 3-3.5 inch cams at the base of the seam.
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