Superfly 

FA:  Skip Guerin 1983 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.12d [details] Length:  1 pitch, 65 feet Views: 1,475 page views Submitted By: Hank Caylor on Nov 24, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Ted Lanzano at the crux of Superfly. Photo by Cody...

Description 

Not really a one move wonder, buuuttttt. It has a burly set up with one fat reach at mid-height, then stays hard 11 all the way to the top. This a great route for the climber that's got that, "Been there, done that, 12d, kinda attitude". Definitely unique.

If that's not good enough for ya, Chad Greedy has added a VERY sweet direct start to Superfly, tentatively called "Supah Dupah Fly", that kicks the whole thing to 13b or so....

Location 

The more reasonable looking line just right of Iron Monkey. Begin up and right on top of some blocks (purple tiny TCU) and traverse in left on to powerful and overhanging terrain (great orange/yellow Aliens). Make an improbable reach for good crystal and move up and left into an obvious and steep layback system (freaky #3 Camalot) that gets you to the anchors.

Protection 

This was an early Eldo horrow show done classic Skip style, with Christian Griffith and Chip Ruckgaber for partners. Today's modern cams-Aliens/TCUs have made this a much more reasonably protected outing. It can still, just, keep its R rating though, I think.

Photos of Superfly Slideshow

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Skip leading Superfly, photo: Bob Horan Collection...	Steve about to enter the "business" on Superfly.	Steve plugs in his gear before the crux section. ...