The Metamorphosis 

Metamorphosis is one of the best pitches of hard 5.9 or easy 5.10 in the Canyon...in many ways it defines high-angle Eldorado face climbing. Originally done with an intermediate sling belay at some bolts (nobody does this anymore- although a "leaver-biner" appears here with some regularity!), the free line diverges from the original aid line by moving up and right from the bolts, whereas the original aid line climbed straight up- what is now called Urine Trouble. You can access this pitch from either King's X (downclimb the ramp from the top of this climb), Yellow Traverse or Diffraction (5.10a). By soloing up the 5.5 corner to a staging area at the base of Diffraction and belaying, it is possible (and popular) to link Diffraction and Metamorphosis into one long lead. Diffraction is now safer since a loose block was strategically removed...but still much funky gear and some friable rock remain. To descend, you need to scramble up and left, then around the corner onto the West Face, across an exposed step, and rap from the 2-bolt anchor near the "full-body hueco" above the West Overhang route.

From talking to other people, I think I may have screwed this pitch up, I believe I missed a cam placement after the crux. This would eliminate a 30ft runout and make it about a 10ft runout. I also meant to say "angle up and right" after the crux in the description. Whatever the case may be, be prepared for a relatively bold route, and a total classic. I don't often see people climbing on this wall, if you are up for these routes, they are among the best in Eldo.

There's a good stopper in at the crux, then, about ten feet past the crux there is a hidden cam placement (0.75 or 0.5 Camalot). At the mantle near the top, there is a bomber nut placement (#4 or 5 BD wire?) up in the corner formed by the ledge you have to mantle onto and the wall.

This is an awesome route and if it were not for the funky approach it would get climbed everyday. The gear is all there but takes some looking around. I got some great ballnut placements that kept this route from ever getting very spicy. The fixed nut above the layback section was removed on 06/13/02. Do this route, it's great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This comment is about the "Urine Trouble" variation described by Steve above. I found the hardest moves to be getting established at the base of the corner, which are protected very well by a drilled pin and a cam. The runout above is pretty long but the climbing never exceeds 5.9 after the initial leftward traverse. Also there is some questionable rock near the top of the corner including a big loose hold, so be on guard. Great alternative ending to a kick ass pitch. Who added that drilled pin anyway? For a while there was an old shitty bolt there and now there's that pin. Almost takes some of the fun out of things.

Spectacular. More so in my opinion than climbs like Outer Space or Rosy Crucifixion.Gear: Bring lots of runners. I used 6 full length runners and needed more plus 11 draws. Big cams would be useful (didn't have them). #3 and #3 1/2 Camalot. Maybe even a #4. As of today, there was a fixed nut at the crux (downward pointing flake), but that's no big deal. It's easy to place. The second crux (final bulge) protects well with a big brass nut. It's easy to climb past the cam placements Josh mentions above without seeing them. If you're at the final bulge, step back down a move, and there's a crack down and right that takes about a .5-.75 Camalot and/or a big cam. I was freaked on the "5.8" exiting left out of the initial corner. Downclimbed, then back up and got in a bad ball nut, and an interesting sidways HB offset (#9? aluminum). This was just before the move where you lean out on the big black horn and move left.

All this is good beta. One thing that really helped me on this climb was my determination to just climb until I found the first bolts. Stopping to look for pro is a waste of time and energy on this section. Just grab those big, but funky, strangely insecure feeling holds and crank - you will be clipping those bolts before you know it. Gets the adrenaline flowing though, I'll admit.

I last did this climb for the first time since I last did it 25 years ago, today. For whatever reason, I did not find any good placement at the final crux stepping into the rotten band, and was run out quite a ways (~20 feet) from the big cams. The moves are insecure, and it would be really good to get a piece in for the final exit. Does anyone know what piece goes in at the final crux, and if it is any good? Or do you just need to risk a 40+ foot fall? Just curious.

Stupendous route, if you are solid on 5.10. If not, then have someone else lead it. Best to start with King's X -- a great link up. This combo is about as "Eldo Trad Funk" as you are ever going to get.

Jim: you should read the comments! Specifically those of Josh and Ivan. I personally did not feel that the stopper placement they speak of was very good, but I didn't spend much time fiddling with it. However, I do know of someone who has fallen on it--and it held.

Since I'm entering a comment, I suppose it's worth mentioning that this is my favorite pitch in Eldo.

Thanks, Charles. I knew I must have missed something, because I really didn't remember it being so run out from years ago. I was rushed for time, and I suspect I just totally missed the placement Josh found.

One question for those who do the route regularly: what do you think is the best approach link up -- Kings' X, Yellow Wall, come in from West Face, other?

I am responding to Jim Collins. I have done this route about a zillion times. It was one of my favorite short climbs in Eldorado. I tended to favor the Yellow Traverse for an opening pitch. I combined these pitches in my guide books and named the combination XANTHOMORPHOSIS. Xantho is, of course, a combining form and means YELLOW. I recall that the crux can be protected by a #4 RP placed at a blind reach. Joyce and I first did this climb in the late twilight, fourth of July, 1981. I could hear fireworks going off, but I couldn't see what the hell I was doing.

Bring a number five Camalot. I did this last week and the only section that had me rattled (besides the final crux) was after the first crux/roof/corner. I made it up to the 5.7 vertical face and saw that my last piece was a ways down. I stuck in a number 4 Camalot that might have held. I then committed to the moves. They were easy, but it was scary to make them onsight and did not know if I was on route. A number five should fit nicely. On the final crux, I put in the RP and a 00 TCU about it in the same tiny crack. It had only two teeth cammed. I put another RP in a flake to the left. The flake was probably not good. I equalized them and up and down climbed until I was sure I could make the move. A great route, but the rope did get caught in the tooth flake at the crux and I had to rappel from the belay and get it unstuck. We started by soloing one of the easy routes and then down leading to the belay at the start.

One of THE finest routes at Eldo for its grade.

Climbed Diffraction to this route last weekend, got off-route at the crux and ended up going for a ride. Had to re-climb the crux and finish the climb with the payback... bumps, bruises, a cracked helmet and a well-sprained ankle. Climb this one with a clear head (as opposed to a hangover) and remember to go the right way at the crux, or the payback can be a bitch.

With a 70M rope you can link Diffraction into Metamorphosis from the ground. If you have a 60M rope, you would need to start on the upper bench as Steve suggests. Make sure you bring lots of 2 ft slings and consider putting a 3-4 ft runner on the bolt on Metamorphosis to reduce rope drag. You might also need to belay from the finger crack right after the "5.9" exit move to prevent rope drag.

A fun 200+ ft endurance pitch. Thanks for the recommendation, Steve.

(Additional Comment) There are now 2 new bolts at the end of the 5.8 traverse left. I guess you could belay there now, but it would break up the good stuff. The drilled pin is now a big fatty, also.

This climb has every thing that you want in an adventure pitch!
For best results don't over beta it. Place the gear that you find and climb!
Art and Jim may have had EBs in '73, probably not. They were climbing with only two inch webbing wrapped around their waist (no harness) and probably waist belaying as well. There gear was not even from the same universe as the modern climber. Nuts were around, but they hadn't evolved.

There is a special image in my memory of a soft afternoon breeze across a shaded, very steep,intimidating pitch of rock with a pinch of desperation right at the end.

Since you only get to do a climb for the first time once, I would recommend traversing in via 3rd class from the west side and savor this gem as a stand alone route. You will probably repeat it numerous times by a variety of link ups and variations.

This is one of my favorite climbs in Eldo. The climbing flows really well with just enough spice to keep your attention.

Kep, if that was you I saw up there today, nice job. You made it look casual.

Yo Hank, that was me with my bud Joe V. Thanks... I was checking out Sheer Terror when I was over there and got sweaty palms just thinking about you up there! Nice one dude... I was actually thinking about getting on "Scotch and Soda" sometime soon. Sounds pretty exciting!

later

Great moves! All but two pieces of gear seemed a waste of time, but the climb was phenomenal. Woulda been a long ride!

Absolutely classic Eldo....

Probably not the best intro 10 for Eldo. I did not find the 0.75 or 0.5 Camalot placement before the final bulge...thus a 25 foot runout on a bomber!!! #3 HB offset...probably would have held. Exciting pitch that provides enough discomfort to want it again and again.

ABSOLUTELY CLASSIC!!! This might be the finest face pitch of 10 in the Canyon. It's an exercise in mind control and keeping a cool head way above marginal gear. The bolts provide a little bit of assurance that you won't deck if you come off, but Meta is classic Eldo spice in the most delicious and tasty way!

BETA: Look carefully for the third bolt before entering the crux sequence...I somehow missed and climbed way past the cammo'd third bolt on while zoned out on the moves. But did find a great #1 BD Camalot down and right of the crux in a rotten band and an upwards bomber orange Alien/0.75 BD in after the last bulge.

Soulful pitch, soulful Eldo. This is one of the best. Trad skills required.

Really awesome climbing. Beta on descent?

Descent: From the one bolt and gear anchor at the top, stay roped and angle left and through a notch onto the west face. Traverse straight horizontally across a slab at about 5.5 to the cave with the bolts above Recon, etc. Two raps to the ground.