West Ridge - Pony Express to Long John

Description 

This section is the middle of the West Ridge and may be considered by some to be the heart. In some ways, it does feel meatier than other sections. It is arbitrarily defined by the well-known Pony Express and Long John Wall. The name for this section is abbreviated to help fit screens.

This section has some of the best rock along the ridge, but still it has significant loose sections, especially up and right from Pony Express/Mescaline.

Interestingly, this section of the ridge seems to have some seen of the earlier forays in 1965 by P. Ament on Rhombohedral, The Mail Ridge, & Sooberb.

Some of the entrees here include: the beefy Mesca-Line, 5.7; Ignominity, 5.9; the filling P1 of Pony Express, 5.9; the hearty Variation to Mail Ridge, 5.10; Sooberb, 5.10c; the robust Muscle and Hate, 5.11a; the classic Practice Climb 101 to Sidewall (i.e. Practice Wall, 5.11a s); the hungrier-sized Pony Express, 5.11c; the demanding Iron Horse, 5.11c s; the test-piece The Reckoning, 5.12d; among others. There are plenty of other, more-obscure moderate lines here if the popular classics are occupied, so a open mind is helpful on busy weekends here.

It can get quite warm in this section on hot days. Shade will be hard to find when the sun shines here. Don't forget sunscreen for the melanin-challenged!

Best to bring your rack here, for without it, there are slim pickings, maybe one? sport route Barrel of Monkeys, 5.11++.

It's probably wiser to figure out your descent options before heading up above the first pitches here. Most will involve rappelling.

Approach is best via stream crossing at the Milton Boulder or the standard approach from the east end of the park, hiking along the trail parallel to the creek below Redgarden Wall, over the slick, 3rd-class ramp, and then up the west side of the West Ridge.

This section tends to be some of the more popular along the West Ridge.

Getting There 

Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach this section of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Or, you can approach by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.

Enjoy!

The Classics

Featured Route For West Ridge - Pony Express to Long John

False Prophet 5.11d  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - Pony Express t...

The guidebook calls this route "stupendous" and I wouldn't argue. The original route starts just to the right of pitch 1 of Practice Climb, climbs that slab, turns the arete and joins Unbroken Chain where the crack goes vertical. The second pitch climbs the spicy slab above Sidewall's first belay anchors to the hanging corner to the left of the second pitch of Sidewall. This second pitch is s...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO