Rincon

BETA PHOTO: Some of the major formations on the north side of ...

Description 

Rincon is a small but amazing crag with probably the highest density of quality routes in all of Eldorado Canyon State Park. Rincon, for those unfamiliar with Spanish, means corner. Indeed, soaring corner abound here along with impeccable face climbs sprinkled with the occasional roof or crack system. While nearly all the climbs here are in the moderate range, certainly the 5.10s-5.11s are better represented. Spice flavors significant sections of rock here. This is not the cinnamon and nutmeg variety but of the "can't just take a whipper anywhere" flavor. Perhaps, it is even the birthplace for the Colorado headpointing subsociety. There is little for the low or high end climber here, but there is much to feed the soul of a large percentage of climbers. The views are soothing and extend to the continental divide. It's worth the walk.

For some of the routes, the first pitch may be climbed and rapped off, but you will miss much if you only do the first pitch (e.g.Rincon and Aerospace are 4-pitch climbs). Although there are a few bolted lines, you will likely need your rack and protection skills to succeed here.

Often on a nice weekend, for good reason, this wall along with the West Ridge can be very popular with climbers. Its southern exposure makes it particularly pleasant during cooler months although early days in summer months can be delightful as well. Early in the day, this crag does offer shade.

The list of first ascentionists at this crag are amazing. They include: Kor, Ament, Dalke, Hurley, Culp, Olevsky, Erickson, Duncan, Ferguson, Candelaria, R. Briggs, B. Briggs, D. Hunter, Piana, Webster, Coyne, Hare, Rossiter, Archer, Sharp, Hersey, Achey, P. Adams, Goddard, B. Miller, S. Levin, among others.

Particular images from this crag lie resilient in the memories of those who aspire to climb smoothly here. They include Skip Guerin barefoot climbing Wendego in Glenn Randall's Vertigo Games and images of Derek Hersey so smooth physically and mentally on Center Route. As Steve Levin notes, there is excellent footage of the late Cameron Tague working Evictor in P. Mortimer's Scary Faces

There are so many fine routes here! Some of the best include: Over and Out, 5.8; Emerald City, 5.9; Over the Hill, 5.10b; Aerial Book, 5.11a; Aerospace, 5.11b s; Rincon, 5.11a/b; Center Route, 5.11a/b; Climb of the Century, 5.11c s; Wendego, 5.12a/b s; Camoflauge, 5.12c; & Evictor, 5.12c/d s.

Descents include some rappels or downclimbing gullies L or R of the crag.

Note, in particular for the Over the Hill area, there are lots of loose rock sitting on ledge. Do not sit here without being aware of what is above you. Also, note there is some poison ivy here, especially below Rincon. This is not a dog or kid-friendly area.

Note, if anyone has particularly good base digital photos for rendering a topo for this page, please let me know.

Getting There 

The quickest way is to take the Rincon Cutoff Trail, which branches off of the Eldo Trail at the far end of the canyon. This trail cuts across a talus field near the base of the wall and deposits you around the Center Route. The wall may also be reached from the West Ridge--just continue hiking up the trail.

The Classics

Featured Route For Rincon

Rincon 5.11a  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Rincon - Center Route & R

Rincon is four pitches in total, but the first pitch is the most popular, checking in at only 9+ compared to the 11a/b on P3. P1. Start just right of Center Route at the thin crack just right of a bolted line (Camouflage 12c). The climbing is sustained and takes good gear, but the moves are not straight forward jam and go. I never really felt one distinct crux, but it's probably in the first 15ft. The climbing varies from finger to fist-size c...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Rincon Slideshow

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Bob Horan on Wendego, Rincon Wall.

BH on FA of Rincon Overhang Block.